Anything For Animals

posted by admin on May 30

There are so many Top Tips I can think of for your horses and ponies - that I had to give you another 10!

Lets not hang around, so here they are:

1) If your horse is difficult to catch from the field, then keep a bit of crackly paper in your pocket with the treats, so that he is a bit more interested in you in the first place - then once close enough, the treat should do the job!

2) If he is outside a lot in the winter, then leave his ‘feathers’ untrimmed as they will act as a natural ‘drainpipe’ to channel the excess rainwater from his legs - helping reduce the chances of cracked heels.  Adding Vaseline to the heels will also help as well.

3) If your horse needs entertaining in his stable, why not drill a hole through a large turnip (or similar) and hang it from the wall!  This should give him something to amuse himself with - and a tasty treat too!

4) If your horse is too greedy and finishes off his hay too quickly, then make the holes smaller in his hay-net.  Use spare baler twine to form a smaller grid across the existing holes around the middle and bottom!

5) And, if you are feeling creative, then why not make him a new (or first) fly fringe out of baler twine for the warmer weather - particularly if he has a sparse forelock to do the job naturally.

6) Smear a little Vaseline around the tops of the overreach boots if he hasn’t worn them for a while as they could chafe a little to get started.

7) Change the type of wormer you use every other year so that the worms in your area don’t get immune to the preparations.  And always worm at the same time as your whole yard to make a more effective job of it!

8.) If your horses don’t like their medication, you could always mix it with black treacle, or something equally sticky, and wipe it on their tongue - this way they won’t be able to spit it out!

9) Water in your stable should be changed very regularly as it can absorb ammonia from the horse excrement quite easily and will become quite unpleasant to smell and drink - which could eventually make your horse ill.

10) And finally, another comfort one - make sure that you check the fitting of your horses saddle several times a year especially if you are changing their activity.  A horses shape will change quite noticeable with different feeds and/or different amount of exercise from summer to winter.

If you have any of your own tips - please add them in the comments section - or feel free to read 10 Top Show Tips For Your Horses Equestrian Career.

posted by admin on May 27

If you took part in the 2010 Birdwatch earlier this year, then you may be interested in the results.

Those who registered their results should get a letter from the RSPB any-day now with the results inside, but if you didn’t, then here they are:

1) The House Sparrow - Down in overall numbers, but still number 1!

2) The Blackbird - This bird has increased in numbers, and so moved up the chart….

3) The Starling - These sociable birds seem to be dropping in numbers as this moves down from number 2 last year.

4) The Blue Tit - Taking full advantage of all the extra feeders out this winter - they increased in numbers slightly.

5) The Chaffinch - Not seen on any of my 3 counts - but must be popular in other areas.

6) The Woodpidgeon - RSPB stats show that the numbers of this bird are up by 855%!

7) The Robin - Always a popular bird, but as seen alone most of the time, this stays low in the list.

8.) The Great Tit - Numbers of this little chap are increasing - and there were loads on my counts too!

9) The Collared Dove - A quiet little bird that only arrived in the UK from Asia in 1953 - and has spread all over!

10) The Goldfinch - Attracted by the feeders we put out - and knocking the Long-Tailed Tit out of the Top 10!

Wales had similar results with virtually the same birds in the Top 10 - although in a different order: with the Dunnock and Jackdaw replacing the Greenfinch and Woodpigeon. 

In Northern Ireland, virtually the same 10 were again found with the Woodpidgeon losing out again - this time to the Coal Tit. The Starling was in 1st place here with the House Sparrow relegated to 2nd place. 

Scotland came in with the Chaffinch first, with the House Sparrow again second, but with the Dunnock and Greenfinch in 9th and 10th place.

If you want to know more about the survey, taking part in other surveys or joining the RSPB as a supporting member, then visit their website for more information and advice.

Source: The RSPB Big Garden BirdWatch Leaflet & Website.

posted by admin on May 25

This article details all you need to know as a beginner about a year in the life of a bat in the UK: 

Animal Type: Mammalia - Chiroptera

Species Info: There are 2 main Orders of bats in the world: Megachiroptera and Microchiroptera - but only the latter are found in the UK. 

UK Distribution:There are 17 species of Bat in the UK, with all these found in the South including the tiny Pipistrelle (only 5 grams) and the larger Daubenton’s and Noctule Bats, with only a few species found in the North.

Preferred Habitat: Around water (as this attracts their insect prey) and in quiet locations - although are quite happy to live in towns on canals or by lakes.  They need roosting sites nearby to where they feed - one for hibernating and another for summer roosting, so a variety of buildings, caves and holes in trees (or bat boxes) are essential.

In Spring:  Waking Up After Hibernation.
In early March, bats may still be hibernating but some will start to feed if necessary - however April is the month that you are most likely to start seeing many bats feeding at night in the UK.  By May there will be plenty of activity in the Bat world as the females are actively looking for communal nursery sites in which to have their young.

In Summer:  Giving Birth & Young Taking To The Skies.
The young are usually born in June (usually only 1 young per female per year).  These young stay in the nursery though most of July, building up strength until they start to leave the nest in August.  After the young have left, the females go off in search of males to mate with.

In Autumn:  Mating & Searching For A Hibernation Site.
The adult males and females spend most of September mating, as well as starting to build up fat reserves for the winter ahead by feasting on insects.  If the weather stays warm there could still be feeding into November, but when temperatures start to drop, the bats start to hibernate.

In Winter:  All UK Bats Are Hibernating.
You will rarely see a Bat through the cold winter as they will be be hibernating somewhere quiet and secure.  As the winter moves on they will stay in that place, gradually using up their fat reserves to stay alive.  Only when temperatures warm up nearing Spring will they naturally begin to stir and set out hunting again.

UK/World Events: 
May: UK National Moth & Bat Night
August: European Bat Weekend

Bat Groups:
UK - Bat Conservation Trust
US - Bat Conservation International
Other - South-East Asia Bat Conservation

Other Information:
Bats in the UK are protected by strict laws and you can be liable for a fine of up to £5000 and possible imprisonment per incident or ‘per bat’ if you deliberately capture, injure or kill a bat, destroy a roost - even if not in use, or intentionally block access to a bat roost.  So call an expert if in doubt!

posted by admin on May 20

Scruffts is the alternative dog show - where there isn’t a pedigree dog in sight!

Take your shaggy hound or your short-haired long-legged crossbreed along to the heats - and you could be best in show! There are heats across the country throughout the year, and the final is held at Discover Dogs in November 2010.

You could be there!

There are 4 classes for you to enter, and of course you need to make sure that your dog qualifies for Scruffts in the first place, and then each of the classes.

Your Dog:
For obvious reason your dog can’t be a pedigree dog - as that is what Crufts is for! - but your dog does need to be a ‘crossbreed’ rather than just a ‘mongrel’.  The difference being that a mongrel is a dog of unknown parentage - whereas according to the official definition - “A Crossbreed dog is a dog of mixed blood, whose parents are of two different breeds, or a mixture of several breeds” - taken from the official Kennel Club ‘Scruffts’ Website.

Yes, Scruffts is also run by the Kennel Club (as is Crufts) and they are very strict on the rules here too! So you need to deal with them in a professional manner and act according to their rules and regulations - like your dog being at least 6 months old for starters!

You don’t need to have your dog registered with the Kennel Club before you can enter the 2010 Heats for Scruffts, so just get started by finding out where your local heats are being held - take your £1 entry fee - and get started!

The Classes:
There are 4 basic classes for the competition, with the winners from each class, going on to the overall final:  The Scruffts Champion!

Your dog will not be eligible for all the classes as they are covering different things, and your choice are really limited to the age and sex of your dog.

Most Handsome Crossbreed Dog
Males Crossbreeds over 6 months but under 7 years of age.  Any handler.

Prettiest Crossbreed Bitch
Female Crossbreeds over 6 months but under 7 years. Any handler.

Child’s Best Friend
Any Dog or Bitch over 6 months but under 12 years. Handler must be between 6 and 16 years old.

Golden Oldie Crossbreed
Any Dog or Bitch 8 years and over.  Any handler. 

What Are They Judged On?
It is important to realise that they are not being judged on bone structure and how they hold their tail - like at Crufts, they are being judged on their ability to be a great dog!

For example, the judges will be looking for Good Health, Good Character and Good Temperament with other people and dogs!

So as long as your dog is perfectly turned out, full of beans and very friendly - then you are in with a good chance of winning - and 1st, 2nd and 3rd places of each heat win a rosette - and although only the winner is guaranteed a place in the Scruffts final, if they can’t make it the runners-up could be asked to attend instead!

So you could come third in the heat - but still win the show!

Get Going!
The heats are already underway for the 2010 competition - so get straight to the official Heat Website, and find out if you still have time to prepare for the show!

Buy a new collar and lead, give the dog a trim or a shampoo, cut those nails and dig out your best outfit as well!

Good Luck!

posted by admin on May 15

Yes - that’s tonight.  It’s not too late to really help out with some local conservation work!

The Butterfly Conservation Trust has been running this event for years now (but without the bats - they are new this year: see below….) and they are always looking for new moth trappers and counters to help form a complete national distribution picture.

Moths and other insects are very susceptible to changing habitats and whole populations can rise or fall depending on how the land around them changes.  For example the building of a new road could affect their movement for many months - maybe too for too long and they stop moving altogether.   Even changing back gardens to decking, front gardens to drives, adding too many all-night light sources to distract them.

Moths & Bats:
There are a whole host of things that can prevent a moths natural behaviour, and this is where the bats come in.  Bats love eating insects - particularly moths.  Infact all 16 species of bat found in Britain eats moths as part of their diet, some more than others.

So if the moths are being affected by environmental changes or as a result of global warming, then bats will be too - so this year the Bat Conservation Trust have joined forces - and to save resources really.  If thousands of people are out at night counting and trapping moths - then why not get them to watch out for bats at the same time!

Do be aware however, that in the UK there are strict regulations about the proximity of humans to bats, and it is against the law for an unqualified person to approach bats when roosting or even to touch a bat they find on the ground or in their home.  So it is best to join a bat group to get really close and maybe to eventually become one of those qualified people!

How To Take Part:
Now, you can take part in any way you want really, whether you find a local event that is offering a nighttime bat walk with an expert, you might find an evening lecture and trapping session at a local wildlife centre or maybe you just want to trap moths at home yourself using any number of homemade or shop-brought ‘live’ traps.

You can download and pictures and all your results to the main Moth Count website up until the end of the year, giving you plenty of time to have identified everything you have found.  I mean there are an estimated 2500 species of moth found in Britain and the Channel Islands alone!

And you don’t need to be living in the countryside to take part - it is just as interesting to find out which moths and bats are living in towns and cities these days.  Migration and distribution changes through the years are a very interesting part of this study, as some species and up thriving in cities and others have to find a new place to live.  Just like people I suppose!

Something New:
Maybe you have never really been a fan of moths or bats - and you want to try something different.  Give it a go.

Your town and churchyard could look totally different at night and it could be a great adventure for the kids - I mean there is no point passing on your phobias to them is there.  They could be a budding wildlife volunteer in the making and help keep moths and bats as a vital part of our local environment in the future, for the animals.

Even if you don’t want to touch anything tonight, at least have a look at some of the creatures that use your garden at night.  There should be fox cubs around, maybe a hedgehog or badger as well.  You might hear the beautiful song of the nightingale, or an owl calling it’s mate.

And some moths aren’t that boring either - take the Elephant Hawk-moth:  A huge moth with delicate pink and lime green wings.  And you never know if you could find something new to Britain.  What if 1 of your moths is the first of it’s kind to head over from Europe - it has happened before on a Moth Night.

Happy Counting!

posted by admin on May 10

Horses and Ponies are just as much part of the family as dogs and cats - so lets focus on them in this article.

I have put together 10 great tips for saving your horse or pony from discomfort or boredom, and made them into a nice easy-to-read little list:

1) Safety First - Tie a small knot in the end of your lead rope to prevent it slipping clean out of your hand if he is startled or puts the breaks on!  This way he can’t get loose in an unsuitable environment.

2) And if he does injure himself, use salty water for his wounds - a really effective and cheap antiseptic.  Disinfectants shouldn’t really be used as they slow the healing process.

3) And talking cheap - use vinegar as a fly repellent.  It is just as effective as store-brought preparations, and is completely natural when washed off in the rain (and onto the grass your horses eat!).

4) Stop your horses from refusing to eat worming tablets or creams by storing them in the fridge overnight - they lose their smell when chilled - so he might no notice them in his breakfast!

5) Reduce the amount of foot-scraping your horse does at the stable door by putting a rubber mat there.  This way he won’t wear his hooves out on the rough ground - and if it no longer makes a noise, he may stop doing it so often!

6) In really cold weather, remember to leave a decent sized plastic or rubber ball in the water trough to prevent if from freezing completely over so your horses can still drink through the night!

7) And in really warm weather, flies and midges are more attracted to sweaty or dirty horses, so make sure you rub him down regularly and/or wash often with a shampoo that contains a mild antiseptic to help deter bugs!

8.) Staying on the bug theme - when applying louse powder, make sure you start at the fetlock, and really work the powder into the hair roots all the way down the creast, along the spine and right to the roots of the tail.  There’s no point doing it unless you are going to do it properly the first time!

9) If you want to save yourself some trouble when shaving your horse’s whiskers - use a plastic safety razor instead of scissors - this way you can be a bit braver when making contact with his moving head!

10) And an obvious one to finish - but one that people seem to forget sometimes: Never tie your horse to a fixed object!  Always tie to a piece of breakable baler twine to prevent him from injuring himself if startled.

Go to 10 Top Time Saving Tips For Your Horses Maintenance  for more ideas.

posted by admin on May 6

Welcome to Part II of this article discussing the reasons your pet may suffer from bad joints - and how to prevent this damage and discomfort.

Hopefully, the previous point all made sense to you, and have highlighted how easy it is too affect your pets life by simple decisions. Well, here are the final 2 to make sure you have the best partnership with your pet, for as long and as healthy as possible.

5) Excessive Weight:
This one is totally in your control - and there is no excuse for an overweight young animal!

With correct feeding and exercise, you pet should maintain a healthy weight for it’s breed - and your veterinary nurses and vets will be able to offer you all the advice and assistance you need. Nobody wants to see an animal in pain (which an overweight animal could well be) - so keep the weight off and you will extend it’s lifespan and make him a happier pet!

Some illnesses and medications can cause an animal to gain weight, but you can still make sure that it has a limited effect on it’s health. By offering controlled and low impact exercise you can reduce the strain on your pets body - rather than still taking it on day-long walks or running it along side you on a job or bicycle ride!

6) Age Related Problems:
Although you may think that it is inevitable that an elderly pet should get ‘a bit stiff’ it doesn’t have to be the end result for your pet.

If you are able to care for your pet from day one with alertness to their needs and great preventative care, you can reduce the chances of bad joints in old age.

For example, if you select a breed that doesn’t have hereditary joint problems, you are on your way to a healthy pet. Or if you select a breed that is known for joint problems but have had the parents and grandparents checked for low incidence, then again, you are reducing the risks.

And by the way - actions like this can help prevent all dogs and cats from having hereditary problems - as if you are not buying litters that are not guaranteed to be healthy - then they won’t breed them again, eradicating these potentially ‘bad’ genes. I mean who wants to buy a puppy or kitten that will be in pain for most of it’s potentially shortened life? Try to remember that nearly all puppies and kittens are ‘adorably cute’ - so don’t go on looks - go on health.

In terms of accidents - if you control your pet properly through it’s life - you will reduce injury through accidents, and if you control it’s food and exercise, again, you can reduce damage to joints in the same way.

Getting your pet insured from Day 1 can also work in your advantage. If you pet is born with a congenital defect (present from birth) then having them insured will guarantee that they have the best medical treatment available as all expenses will be paid for by the pet insurance company - not you. That way they can have all the scans and tests necessary to treat an improve their health.

Similarly if your pet gets an infection and you take it straight to the vets and they are not restricted by your wallet - they can deal with the problem asap and with the best available treatment, restricting it’s long term effect.

‘Aging’ is just the accumulation of all these effects. If you pet has had a healthy active life with little long-term illnesses it may well age very slowly - but if it is overweight and plagued by injury and illness, it will age quickly.

So, whether you are thinking of buying a new pet, or you have just acquired one - I hope this has given you a few things to think about and plan for in the future with regards to the health of your new pet.

posted by admin on May 1

There are many pets out there who have stiff joints, impaired movement or a mild limp - and many could be avoided.

With 6 main factors involved in the cause it can be easy to identify the main reason for the disability and discomfort.  And at least 3 (possibly 5) that are totally avoidable reasons - ways in which you can not only help your pet not to suffer, but to protect future generations.

I know this sounds a bit far reaching, but once you have read the information below and in Part II, you will no doubt agree.

1) Due To An Accident:
This is the most unavoidable of the reasons for bad joints - although it affect can be limited by your actions. By allowing an animal to get hit by a car for example with inadequate garden security, could seriously affect it’s joints in old age - even if the animal recovered well from the original incident.

And in the same light - by restricting over-enthusiastic activity of young animals - particularly in the larger dog breeds for example - you can limit the ‘accidents’ they are exposed to and so help make sure they grow up without a predisposition to problems.

2) Your Choice Of Breed:
One way to make sure that your pet doesn’t suffer from bad joints during it’s life, is to avoid selecting for breeds that a known or associated with joint problems, like German Shepherds.

Reading about breed specific problems is essential before selecting a specific breed anyway, but more so with reference to known medical traits. That way, if you still wish for that breed, you can make sure that your puppy or kitten’s parents have been checked for all associated hereditary diseases or conditions - therefore reducing the likelihood of your pet getting painful joints when older.

3) Unforeseen Circumstances:
However there are some conditions that are not present in the parents or grandparents and are just found in the individual and become noticeable in the first few months or years of it’s life. 

So you could always be unlucky enough to purchase one of these unfortunate individuals - all the more reason to always get pet insurance for the first year of your pets life (from the minute you pick it up) - this way you will find out if there is anything that is going to affect your pet long term - and then you can keep it covered and the insurance pay for it! 

4) Getting An Infection:
Another one that you might not be able to avoid, but that you can treat with differing degrees of attention - depending on the infection your pet has.

For example, if you are quick to spot a problem in your pet and get it seen by a vet as soon as possible, then a small infection might have no lasting effect on your pet.  However, if you let things drag on - or don’t apply all possible treatments due to cost or the time it takes, then it could spiral into something more long term. 

Now read Why Does Your Pets Have Bad Joints? - Part II, for the final 2 points to help your pet avoid bad joints.