Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Apr 20

There is only 1 species of mink found in the UK - The American Mink.

As you can probably guess, the American Mink is an introduced species and is wreaking havoc across this ‘newly discovered’ landscape and is now a ‘pest species’ - which can be (humanely) trapped and killed.

But how can one species of mink be so destructive when their are other species of mink across Europe?

American Mink:
As their name suggests - these mink have not evolved to live in a European ecology.  They were brought to the UK for their furs and have since escaped or been ’set free’ into un unsuitable environment and in large numbers.

Mink are semi-aquatic mammals and love to eat anything they can fit in their mouths including our much loved and very endangered water voles!  They are very territorial and will not tolerate other minks coming too close - often fighting to the death…..

They will also take birds and eggs and are not liked amongst farmers, wildlife enthusiasts or conservationists to name a few parties.  Although they are a wonderful sight in themselves when seen wild - they are persecuted wherever they go.

They are black in appearance although can be more brown in cases due to inbreeding when farmed - however their tail is always very bushy and can be almost as long as their body - and they have huge whiskers on their face!

Their bodies are much longer than the average cat, but they have very short legs.  As a result, they move about by ‘hopping’ rather than walking like a cat, with their back slightly raised. They will also be seen in or near water - which is also very unlike a cat.

Not An Otter!
Some people get them confused with otters - which can be disastrous - as otters are very rare in most parts of the UK and shouldn’t be disturbed or trapped - and certainly not killed! In the UK they are also a protected species and even getting too close for a picture can be stepping over the ‘legal’ line! 

The easiest way to tell them apart if you can only see one animal on it’s own is that the otter has tiny ears for it’s head!

Other differences include the following but aren’t always so easy to spot with one individual passing by in a flash (however if you see a long mammal in the water or on the ground in daylight infront of you for a long time - it will most likely be a mink as otters are very shy and mainly nocturnal).

Eurasian Otter: (Lutra lutra)
Brown, mainly water-based mammal - nocturnal and very wary of humans and dogs.
Rounded, wide face with tiny ears compared to the size of it’s head!
Pale, creamy colour band from the ears, down the throat and to the front legs.
Around 1 meter long (medium dog sized) - with thick, heavy-looking tapering tail.

American Mink: (Neovison vison)
Black, land and water-based mammal - active any time of day or night and not shy!
More pointy face with larger ears - more like a polecat.
Generally the same colour all over - but commonly with a bright white chin.
Up to 50cm long (large cat sized) - with a long, full, fluffy-looking light tail.

All Change:
Luckily for UK wildlife, mink occupy the same habitat as otters but otters are so much larger that the mink move away.  Eventually as the otters recover their numbers in the UK, mink numbers will drop to a manageable low - and they will stop eating all our precious wildlife!

However, the European Mink (Mustela lutreola) isn’t so lucky and are listed a endangered!  As the American Mink are bigger than them - they are the ones wiping out whole populations in Europe!  Unless trapping and habitat loss are dealt with on the continent, European Mink could be seeing their last few strongholds lost to the Americans!

Unfortunately - introduced species rarely ever settle in naturally to a new environment and will always be classed as pest if their habits badly affect other species.  So the people who ’saved’ a few farmed mink from becoming coats - could possibly have doomed several other species to extinction! 

So, ’save’ one common and hugely widespread domesticated individual from instant painless death - but allow it to painfully kill at least 2 other already restricted and endangered mammal species as well as numerous threatened birds and their eggs. 

Not such a well thought out ‘animal rescue’ after all!

posted by admin on Jan 30

If you are considering taking on some fire-bellied toads - then read on:

There amphibians are one of the easier amphibian species to take on for a first time keeper - but are still great fun for the more experienced; and are great to look at.

With their ‘plain’ back colouring, they look like a piece of swamp grass or soggy leaf - until they lift up their legs and leap away!  Their undersides are brightly coloured - showing bright red swirls and flashes!

Small in size, friendly in nature and able to live at room temperature - they hardly little leapers couldn’t be easier to cater for!

Basic Care:
They will live quite happily in a decent sized vivarium in a warm room with access to daylight or a light (not heat) emitting lamp.  I do have a heat wire running under their water - as they don’t like to take a dip in  the cold!

For my 4 toads, I have a 2ft by 1.5ft by 1ft vivarium, which is ample.  They have a submerged water tray in the centre with substrate and bark chips on top and around the water.  There are also some bromiliad-like plants buried in this substrate which they love to hide in.

There is also a large piece of cork floating half in and half out of the water for them to hide under and use to climb in and out of their warm pool - as well as several smaller bark chips floating on the surface for them to hold onto.

They absolutely love to just float in the water with 1 foot on the bark and then hide under the log in the daytime.  And 1 of mine just lives withing the leaves of the plant - only coming down to eat!

Feeding Time: 
Being quite small, they need to feed on a smaller prey species - and it has to be alive.  These toads will often reject food that isn’t moving and one of mine was sitting within millimeters of a tiny locust for 30 minutes before it twitched its leg and was gobbled up in a second!

They just love wax worms - and they are greedy little monsters too with one of mine eating 4 wax worms in a row!  I just didn’t think he has the space inside him as he was my smallest!

There is no sharing at the dinner table - so when I feed I have to put in more than necessary otherwise some might not get anything to eat at all! 

However, if they aren’t submerged in the water, under a log or in the plants - they will take these wax worms out of your hand if they are hungry - which is nearly all the time!  A great sight!

Toads Will Be Toads:
As will all toads, they do have toxic chemicals in their scent glands which appear like a small bow-tie on the back of their necks.  These glands on my toads help me to identify them as some are brown, some bright green and others barely visible.

Due to these glands, it is best to always wash your hands after handling your toads, and to keep the water very clean and these toxins wash off into the water and can make your toads poorly!  And don’t forget to treat the water first anyway with a suitable water conditioner

Now go grab your camera and take some great shots of their fire bellies! 

posted by admin on Nov 30

I work at a local dog shelter - and really wish more people would rehome the lovely Staffies we have here.

They are dogs with huge hearts, full of life and easy to train - but they have a stigma it would seem.  And that is where you come in.

By not being a ‘typical’ Staffordshire bull terrier owner - the fact that you have one (or 2) would go to making them not a cliche.  I mean if there are Staffies out there with pink collars and cow-print coats on, then they won’t look quite so ‘hard’ for their more typical owners and be trussed up in the largest black leather harness and 2-stone chain lead.

Staffies: The Breed:
Staffordshire bull terriers were originally bred as a dog to catch vermin - and some of the best ‘ratters’ of medieval Briton were bull terriers, however the breed was also used for fighting, bear-baiting and other such activities.

As a result of this type of breeding, the have a very muscular appearance and a great big head and mouth!  Needless to say that this translates into ‘looking mean’.

However, you should also be aware that Westies were bred to kill foxes (!) but we seem to think they are cute now!

Staffies are however, very reliable dogs and respond very well to training and absolutely love agility!  You won’t have a quite moment with one of these terriers in your home - but that’s what makes them fun.

There are 2 body types for the Staffies: the short-legged and the long-legged; as well as a whole range of colours from all white through tans, brindle, browns with white faces, chests and feet to all black.  So, something for everyone.

Staffies: The Problem:
Well, the problem is that due to the ’status symbol’ of the perfect Staffie - irresponsible people are breeding and breeding and breeding them until they get the right ‘look’ that they are after - and they are dumping all those along the way that don’t quite meet that look.

Regardless of age or sex - they are all ending up at rescue centres or are dumped - and needless to say; these people don’t have their pets micro-chipped either, so the problem becomes someone else’s.

Unfortunately, many rescue centres have the hope of rehoming as many homeless dogs as possible - so they cannot take more than 1 or 2 Staffies at a time - otherwise there would be no room for all the other breeds that have been abandoned!

As a result, many of the people who genuinely call rescue centres with a Staffie that they can no longer have (for financial or marital reasons) cannot find a reputable centre to care for it!  They have to resort to giving it to anyone who will take it after calling all the best centres and getting turned down - while those who don’t care for their pets just dump them regardless!

Staffies: The Solution:

Firstly - try not to see Staffies as a fighting dog - see them as a dag which has been used needlessly for a fashion statement.

By assuming that all Staffies are ‘bad’ you are making sure that these dogs remain homeless and also that the breed in general is persecuted wherever it goes.

Obviously - it goes without saying that you shouldn’t ever buy a Staffie puppy (or Staffie cross puppy either) as this will help not only to stem the breeding pattern - well if their owners don’t get money for their pups and have to feed them themselves they might have less litters - and then you still have a home ready for one of the abandoned dogs instead!

Love Staffies - Rehome Staffies!

posted by admin on Sep 29

If you want a really strange pet - but without the long-term commitment: get a triops!

These ‘alien’ looking creatures are something to amaze your friends with - and scare your mum with!

However strange they may look - especially the ghostly shed skins - their lifecycle is even more strange - and they were around with the dinosaurs! 

And with very little care and cleaning needed, these pets can be a great short term investment!  And fun too.

What Are They:
These little creatures are actually crustaceans - that crabs and lobsters to you and me - however they are much smaller.

They look a bit like miniature horseshoe crabs when fully grown, and have a long flexible tail with up to 71 pairs of appendages running the whole length of their body.

They are in constant motion using all these ‘legs’ to propel them through the water, and swim upside down to eat.  They also perform acrobatics all the time - twisting and turning through the water all day and night.

Due to the thinness of their carapace (outer coating) they appear to be bright blue, green and red as their internal organs and blood vessels show through.

They also shed their skin as they moult into full size and so you will often find a hollow triops floating in the water which you can fish out and investigate!

How Do You Care For Them?
Amazingly, you buy new triops as dry as a bone - mixed in with a sandy-like substrate.  This is because they live as eggs in river beds over the dry season and only hatch out when there is enough water to sustain them as adults.

To house them you get a small glass of plastic tank no larger than 1 litre in volume otherwise they won’t hatch out.  These small tanks are often supplied with your original purchase along with sand and food for later development.

You need to use bottled water to fill the tank - as tap water will kill them before they hatch.  Using bottled water means that you don’t have to buy water conditioning tablets like you have to for fish and reptiles.

They also don’t need the water to be heated either as room temperature is fine - however they do need the heat of a desk lamp or bright (but not direct) sun for most of the first few weeks of life otherwise they will not fully develop. 

As they are microscopic for this time, you won’t know how many you have until they moult large enough - so use the light to give them the best chance of developing.

Their Life Cycle:
They will hatch in your warm water within 30 hours - but of course you won’t know about it as they are too tiny - but you must leave the tank totally still and don’t add any ornaments to the tank either for at least the first week - or until you can see the baby triops.

You feed them the supplied food as described and water changes are also to be done in a certain way to make sure that they are not washed away or get ill from the dirty water: don’t forget that they are swimming in their own waste products!

They will rapidly grow to their full size of around 2 inches in a matter of weeks and then you can see the beauty of these living dinosaurs!  They only live for another month once adult - so make the most of them!

Depending on how many you get to adult - they will be sexually mature after just 3 weeks and could begin dropping their eggs into the sand on the base of the tank.  So if you allow this to dry out completely for a month after your adults have died, you can then start the whole process again by refilling your tank - hatching out your own babies!

And they are much much much better than sea monkeys!

posted by admin on Jul 25

This article details all you need to know as a beginner about a year in the life of a Red Fox:

Animal Type: Mammalia - Carnivora - Canidae

Species Info: There is only 1 Red Fox Species: Vulpes vulpes, however, there are around 12 species of true fox in the world, but there are around 24 other species with ‘fox’ in their name like the Bat-Eared Fox (Otocyon) and the Arctic Fox (Alopex). 

UK Distribution: Red Foxes are the only fox species to be living in the UK and are found almost everywhere in the country - particularly in towns and cities! 

Preferred Habitat:  These creatures are ground dwelling and generally nocturnal - although you will often see then during the day when they have young or are ill.

In urban areas they are known to be scavengers - although will take the odd unattended rabbit or chicken!  But in the countryside they need to be in areas of high rabbit density - but will eat fruit, berries and even fish and reptiles! 

In Spring: The Fox Cubs Start To Appear.
The cubs are born quite helpless underground in March, and at this time you will still see the male and female together - with the male bringing food back to the den for the female.  It is only about 4/5 weeks later that the young will start to leave the den as well and investigate their surroundings. 

In Summer:  The Cubs Are Training To Be Adults.
The cubs spend quite a while with their parents in the same area, learning to hunt by themselves and getting to explore the dangers of the area - it will be autumn before they are full size and able to head of alone.

Many people will find their garden filled with fox families at this time - much to the horror of some!  It is very difficult and time consuming to try to ‘get rid of’ a whole family, but why would you want to anyway!  They are very interesting to watch, and it is only for a few weeks

In Autumn:  Foxes Start To Split Up And Hunt Separately.
Not only will the male have been long gone by now, but the mother will be starting to get a little fed up with the young hanging around and sharing her food, so she will start to tell them off a lot more and try to get them to go away.  And this can lead to some noisy nights and short ‘fights’ between nighttime foxes.

The young will soon get the message, and you will start to see single foxes all over the place as the young head off in search of their own territory - so you can find them in some quite unusual places as they try to find an unoccupied area to live in.  The more food available means there can be more foxes living in an area, although in more rural areas, the young foxes may have to travel quite far to settle down.

In Winter: Pairing Up And Mating.
As the cold draws in foxes will have formed monogamous pairs and set up home in a large den - either freshly dug or having been improved from an existing smaller den.  Once settled, they will start mating around January which results in a lot of nighttime garden screeching!

Other Facts: Most Red Foxes have an average lifespan of about 3 years due to accidents and injury - although 12-14 is achievable in the right conditions!   Red Foxes can also be totally black (quite rare) or even almost white (very rare).

Fox Groups: 
UK - The Fox Website 
UK - League Against Cruel Sports

Other Information:
If you find a ’sick’ fox in your garden during the day, the best thing to do it to slowly approach it head on.  If it doesn’t move when you are within 2 feet of it - then it is really ill or seriously injured and you need to call a rescue centre to come and collect it.  If you don’t try to approach it, or it runs away when you do - then it will probably run away from a rescue centre operative when they arrive so will be a waste of time!

If it seems ‘ok’, then offer the fox some food (anything meaty) and fresh water, and leave it alone and with a clear exit (open gate) - as with the extra strength the food and water gave it, it may well then be strong enough to wander back to where it ’lives’ and leave your garden. 

posted by admin on Jul 5

People always love a Top 10 these days, so I put together this list of the dog breeds we love the most.

Obviously, everyone has their own favourite - and this list shows those most favoured by the nation.  And if you look closely - these are the one’s you are most likely to see walking in the park!

However, many people opt for a rescue dog, so don’t actually get the breed they like most - just the one that needed a loving home!  So, there are plenty of dog lovers out there with just any old crossbreed or mongrel that they love to pieces!

1) The Faithful Labrador Retriever - Golden, Black, then Chocolate!

2) The Energetic Border Collie - Loved for the agility and enthusiasm.

3) The Boisterous Jack Russell Terrier - In either long-legged or short-legged varieties.

4) The Elegant Yorkshire Terrier - A very handsome small dog, with a long history. 

5) The Reliable German Shepherd - Either Black & Tan, Sable, Black or White - Standard or Long-Haired too.

6) The Fluffy Bichon Frise - A perfectly shaped little dog - that the kids love to pamper!

7) The Chunky Rottweiler - A well-natured large dog breed that can be really affectionate.

8.) The Spotty Dalmation - An eager breed that loves training sessions and exciting walks!

9) The Dainty Cocker Spaniel - The perfect pooch for both families and couples, and comes in many colours.

10) And finally, the Shih Tzu - A short-legged breed that is very popular with the ladies!

Others breeds just outside of the Top 10 include the Golden Retriever, Labradoodle, Greyhound and of course, the Chihuahua!

There are also a lot of ‘new breeds’ cropping up all the time - but they are basically puffed up Cross-breeds and they may only be first or second generation anyway.  These were all sparked off by the original - the Labradoodle - whereby people were choosing the best quality from each breed and hoping the puppies took both: Like easy to train (Labrador) and not moulting (Poodle). 

We now have Cockerpoo’s (Cocker Spaniels and Poodles), Gointers (Golden Retrievers and Pointers) and even Puggles (Pugs and Beagles).  And it doesn’t end there!

posted by admin on Jun 10

Reptiles are fast becoming a popular pet in the country, and there are already 5 that are way ahead of the rest.

These 5 species are the most popular reptiles kept as pets at the moment, and it’s easy to see why.  Reptiles are very low maintenance once you have everything set up correctly in their vivariums - and (as adults) they don’t need feeding every day, so they won’t get in the way of a busy life!

So, lets get started with the Top 5, and I have added a little ‘bio’ about each species as well.

1) Leopard Gecko:
This species of Gecko has adapted very well to life in captivity - although is originally from Southern & Central Asia.  They are different from other geckos as they have an eyelid!  They are mainly nocturnal, so will be hiding during the day - and are much more colourful than their desert-dwelling relatives due to selective breeding.

2) Bearded Dragon:
These reptiles are naturally found throughout Australia, although do very well in captivity.  There are several different species of Beardies that have been domesticated although all have the same common name.  They are found basking on posts and in trees in the morning and afternoon and are very adept climbers.  They are friendly to handle - but can live for over 20 years in the right conditions - so make sure you really like one before buying it!

3) Corn Snake:
This species of Rat Snake is beautifully coloured and can be found in a huge array of colour morphs these days - although originally just from the US.  They are very easy to handle if reared in that way - and make a great ‘first snake’ for children and adults alike.  They can live over 20 years in captivity and are completely non-venomous as they are constrictors - and be prepared to feed them dead baby mice!

4) Royal Python:
Also known as the Ball Python, these medium sized snakes are the smallest species of African Python.  They can be handled easily if reared that way, and tend to roll up in a ‘ball’ if handled or scared - they are non-venomous as well.  They don’t really do much during the day (unless they are hungry) and curl up an hide on their heat-pad for most of the time.  As a result they are very low maintenance and can sometimes not eat for months around a ‘moult’ with no ill effects!

5) Hermann’s Tortoise:
This little cutie is from Europe and is found in shrubby habitats.  It a fairly small species, with adults as small as 3 inches, or as large as 7 inches.  They have the most beautifully patterned yellow and black shells, although this can fade considerably with age - and boy, do they age!  They can easily top 100 years if kept in the right conditions - so make sure your kids like reptiles too! 

If any of these 5 take you fancy, them maybe do a little more research until you find the right one for you!

posted by admin on May 25

This article details all you need to know as a beginner about a year in the life of a bat in the UK: 

Animal Type: Mammalia - Chiroptera

Species Info: There are 2 main Orders of bats in the world: Megachiroptera and Microchiroptera - but only the latter are found in the UK. 

UK Distribution:There are 17 species of Bat in the UK, with all these found in the South including the tiny Pipistrelle (only 5 grams) and the larger Daubenton’s and Noctule Bats, with only a few species found in the North.

Preferred Habitat: Around water (as this attracts their insect prey) and in quiet locations - although are quite happy to live in towns on canals or by lakes.  They need roosting sites nearby to where they feed - one for hibernating and another for summer roosting, so a variety of buildings, caves and holes in trees (or bat boxes) are essential.

In Spring:  Waking Up After Hibernation.
In early March, bats may still be hibernating but some will start to feed if necessary - however April is the month that you are most likely to start seeing many bats feeding at night in the UK.  By May there will be plenty of activity in the Bat world as the females are actively looking for communal nursery sites in which to have their young.

In Summer:  Giving Birth & Young Taking To The Skies.
The young are usually born in June (usually only 1 young per female per year).  These young stay in the nursery though most of July, building up strength until they start to leave the nest in August.  After the young have left, the females go off in search of males to mate with.

In Autumn:  Mating & Searching For A Hibernation Site.
The adult males and females spend most of September mating, as well as starting to build up fat reserves for the winter ahead by feasting on insects.  If the weather stays warm there could still be feeding into November, but when temperatures start to drop, the bats start to hibernate.

In Winter:  All UK Bats Are Hibernating.
You will rarely see a Bat through the cold winter as they will be be hibernating somewhere quiet and secure.  As the winter moves on they will stay in that place, gradually using up their fat reserves to stay alive.  Only when temperatures warm up nearing Spring will they naturally begin to stir and set out hunting again.

UK/World Events: 
May: UK National Moth & Bat Night
August: European Bat Weekend

Bat Groups:
UK - Bat Conservation Trust
US - Bat Conservation International
Other - South-East Asia Bat Conservation

Other Information:
Bats in the UK are protected by strict laws and you can be liable for a fine of up to £5000 and possible imprisonment per incident or ‘per bat’ if you deliberately capture, injure or kill a bat, destroy a roost - even if not in use, or intentionally block access to a bat roost.  So call an expert if in doubt!