Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Aug 10

Not many people think of cat breeds when they think of cats - to most people; Cats are just Cats!

So, what I have done is to put together a list of the 5 most popular cat breeds in the the UK today, and a little description of each one.  This way you can get an idea of what is out there.

1) The Persian:
This long-haired cat breed always wins hearts!  With it’s flowing coat that comes in a huge variety of colours and it’s gentle nature (if properly groomed!) can make almost everyone go ‘ahh!’.  They have a long history of being a show cat and love to be pampered and to just sit on a lap or cushion and be stroked!

2) The Siamese:
This breed is the noisy one of the bunch!  They love to be heard over everything else - and can be very persuasive pets!  Their very short coat makes for low maintenance in that department, but they are very active - and very long-lived so can keep you on you toes for over 16 years!  Modern breeding has made for a much more ‘pointy’ cat - but the older style is still very in demand.

3) The Maine Coon:
A highly desirable large cat - and ever so family friendly.  One of the oldest known cat breeds from the US - this breed is found all over the world even today.  It’s thick insulating coat is great for all weathers, and it’s relaxed attitude wins it many human friends!  Once thought to be a cross between domestic cats and raccoons (!), this large breed cannot be mistaken for a standard moggie!

4) The British ShortHair:
Recently overtaking the Persian in UK show registrations, this very soft and very colourful breed is really increasing in popularity.  With huge eyes and a thick cuddly appearance - they make the most adorable kittens!  The males are considerably larger than the females and develop the large ‘jowls’ on their faces as they mature.  The blue colouring was so widespread at one point that it gained it’s own name: the British Blue - still winning shows today! 

5) The Ragdoll:
This delightful breed of cat is one of the most relaxed.  Not wanting to chase birds and rodents al the time, or destroy furniture and curtains by climbing all over the place - these cats make great indoor pets.  They all have striking blue eyes - the brighter the better for showing - but all stem from one American breeder with a single male and 2 females!

There are plenty more cat breeds out there, but hopefully this gives you an idea of those breeds you are likely to see for sale near you.

posted by admin on Jun 4

It’s not a case of whether you lose your pet - it’s more about getting it back!

Many pet owners don’t seem to realise how terrible it is to lose a pet, and just because their little pet seems to always be at home or is rarely off the lead - they assume it can never get lost.

It can - and many many many pets every year get lost - and only a few ever make it back home.

The Problem:
Well, I have worked for animal rescue centres and veterinary surgeries and the number of times we get a phone call to say that someone has lost their black cat, or their pedigree dog.

Now, I don’t know if you know this but there are about a million black cats that all look - well, black.  And let’s be honest, there really isn’t much difference to the layman’s eye between 1 Yorkshire Terrier and the next - I mean they are bred to all look roughly the same, aren’t they?

And, obviously unless you call every vet, rescue centre, pet store or well being neighbour, you might not ever be matched up to your pet again.  Say for example your cat had been asleep in a car that drove off 20 miles before the cat jumped out - would you have called the vets that far from home?

What if your dog got lost while you were out in the local woods and ended up following another owner to the car.  They might not find you or want to leave your dog alone - so thinking they are helping might take your dog with them and report it to their own vet - which is completely on the other side of the woods to you! Or you are on holiday, miles from home?

And don’t think your pets collar will help either - many owners don’t put their full details on them anyway - and many tags - and collars - can (and do) fall off!

We know that animals get lost all the time whether you want to believe it or not - but what if there was a way to give you pet an unmistakable, unremovable id tag that will bring them home everytime?

That’s A MicroChip!
A tiny chip can easily and cheaply be implanted into your pet - from cat to rabbit, ferret to horse and dog to tortoise - and you need never worry about getting your pet returned to you when it is found.

They just need the one chip implanted and that is it for the animal!  There are no ongoing costs for the owner - but obviously you need to keep your contact details updated everytime they change so if they need to contact you, they have the best number!

Every veterinary surgery or rescue centre will ALWAYS scan a found animal looking for a microchip as this is the fastest and easiest way to find the owner.  So as long as your lost pet turns up in one of these places - you will be reunited.

They will also scan these animals if their owners are asking for it to be microchipped for them or when an abandoned animal arrives in a shelter.  This has lead to some amazing reunions!

A lost or seemingly abandoned animal may sometimes be adopted in by a new home, and when that new owner wants them ‘chipped or finally takes them to a rescue centre - your details will pop up as the rightful owner!

Also, if a pet is injured or killed on the road and taken to a veterinary surgery, it will also be scanned for a chip.

June 2010:
This month is national MicroChipping Week in the UK - so make sure you take advantage of surgeries and rescue centres offering reduced implantation - and plenty of them are!

I mean, it is to their advantage too. The sooner they can find out about any existing medical conditions an injured ‘lost’ pet has - the sooner they can offer the best treatment. And rescue centres don’t want to raise valuable donations looking after your dog for a week while you try to find it! They would rather it was home the same day, back with it’s owner rather than scared stiff in a noisy kennel!

Also, if your pets are already ‘chipped - take this as a gentle reminder to update your Chip Company with the correct contact details!

It will be the best thing you ever did for your pet!

posted by admin on May 6

Welcome to Part II of this article discussing the reasons your pet may suffer from bad joints - and how to prevent this damage and discomfort.

Hopefully, the previous point all made sense to you, and have highlighted how easy it is too affect your pets life by simple decisions. Well, here are the final 2 to make sure you have the best partnership with your pet, for as long and as healthy as possible.

5) Excessive Weight:
This one is totally in your control - and there is no excuse for an overweight young animal!

With correct feeding and exercise, you pet should maintain a healthy weight for it’s breed - and your veterinary nurses and vets will be able to offer you all the advice and assistance you need. Nobody wants to see an animal in pain (which an overweight animal could well be) - so keep the weight off and you will extend it’s lifespan and make him a happier pet!

Some illnesses and medications can cause an animal to gain weight, but you can still make sure that it has a limited effect on it’s health. By offering controlled and low impact exercise you can reduce the strain on your pets body - rather than still taking it on day-long walks or running it along side you on a job or bicycle ride!

6) Age Related Problems:
Although you may think that it is inevitable that an elderly pet should get ‘a bit stiff’ it doesn’t have to be the end result for your pet.

If you are able to care for your pet from day one with alertness to their needs and great preventative care, you can reduce the chances of bad joints in old age.

For example, if you select a breed that doesn’t have hereditary joint problems, you are on your way to a healthy pet. Or if you select a breed that is known for joint problems but have had the parents and grandparents checked for low incidence, then again, you are reducing the risks.

And by the way - actions like this can help prevent all dogs and cats from having hereditary problems - as if you are not buying litters that are not guaranteed to be healthy - then they won’t breed them again, eradicating these potentially ‘bad’ genes. I mean who wants to buy a puppy or kitten that will be in pain for most of it’s potentially shortened life? Try to remember that nearly all puppies and kittens are ‘adorably cute’ - so don’t go on looks - go on health.

In terms of accidents - if you control your pet properly through it’s life - you will reduce injury through accidents, and if you control it’s food and exercise, again, you can reduce damage to joints in the same way.

Getting your pet insured from Day 1 can also work in your advantage. If you pet is born with a congenital defect (present from birth) then having them insured will guarantee that they have the best medical treatment available as all expenses will be paid for by the pet insurance company - not you. That way they can have all the scans and tests necessary to treat an improve their health.

Similarly if your pet gets an infection and you take it straight to the vets and they are not restricted by your wallet - they can deal with the problem asap and with the best available treatment, restricting it’s long term effect.

‘Aging’ is just the accumulation of all these effects. If you pet has had a healthy active life with little long-term illnesses it may well age very slowly - but if it is overweight and plagued by injury and illness, it will age quickly.

So, whether you are thinking of buying a new pet, or you have just acquired one - I hope this has given you a few things to think about and plan for in the future with regards to the health of your new pet.

posted by admin on May 1

There are many pets out there who have stiff joints, impaired movement or a mild limp - and many could be avoided.

With 6 main factors involved in the cause it can be easy to identify the main reason for the disability and discomfort.  And at least 3 (possibly 5) that are totally avoidable reasons - ways in which you can not only help your pet not to suffer, but to protect future generations.

I know this sounds a bit far reaching, but once you have read the information below and in Part II, you will no doubt agree.

1) Due To An Accident:
This is the most unavoidable of the reasons for bad joints - although it affect can be limited by your actions. By allowing an animal to get hit by a car for example with inadequate garden security, could seriously affect it’s joints in old age - even if the animal recovered well from the original incident.

And in the same light - by restricting over-enthusiastic activity of young animals - particularly in the larger dog breeds for example - you can limit the ‘accidents’ they are exposed to and so help make sure they grow up without a predisposition to problems.

2) Your Choice Of Breed:
One way to make sure that your pet doesn’t suffer from bad joints during it’s life, is to avoid selecting for breeds that a known or associated with joint problems, like German Shepherds.

Reading about breed specific problems is essential before selecting a specific breed anyway, but more so with reference to known medical traits. That way, if you still wish for that breed, you can make sure that your puppy or kitten’s parents have been checked for all associated hereditary diseases or conditions - therefore reducing the likelihood of your pet getting painful joints when older.

3) Unforeseen Circumstances:
However there are some conditions that are not present in the parents or grandparents and are just found in the individual and become noticeable in the first few months or years of it’s life. 

So you could always be unlucky enough to purchase one of these unfortunate individuals - all the more reason to always get pet insurance for the first year of your pets life (from the minute you pick it up) - this way you will find out if there is anything that is going to affect your pet long term - and then you can keep it covered and the insurance pay for it! 

4) Getting An Infection:
Another one that you might not be able to avoid, but that you can treat with differing degrees of attention - depending on the infection your pet has.

For example, if you are quick to spot a problem in your pet and get it seen by a vet as soon as possible, then a small infection might have no lasting effect on your pet.  However, if you let things drag on - or don’t apply all possible treatments due to cost or the time it takes, then it could spiral into something more long term. 

Now read Why Does Your Pets Have Bad Joints? - Part II, for the final 2 points to help your pet avoid bad joints.

posted by admin on Apr 26

There are dozens of veterinary surgeries in your area - but how do you choose the best one for your needs?

All vets have to be fully qualified to run a surgery, and all nurses have to be in training or fully qualified, but receptionist don’t have to have any training or qualifications at all - but then neither do ‘dog trainers’, ‘dog walkers’ or ‘dog sitters’.

So it is important to make sure that you are happy with everyone in the veterinary team.  But what else should you consider?

Price:
I put this first - although many would say that it was the least important.  If you have pet insurance, then cost of treatment is virtually irrelevant as all costs - bar your excess - will be covered by the insurance company.  So no need to worry about anything other than getting your pet the best available medications and treatments.

However, it is always worth knowing the cost of the basic routine things as these may be too low for the insurance to cover - or not covered at all, like vaccinations, neutering, nail clipping, tail docking and wormers etc.

Location:
Proximity to your vet is very helpful in case of emergencies or if you just want to nip to the vets in your lunch break for a routine appointment - but you need to think about what that surgery can offer.

For example, not all surgeries offer overnight care or specialist care, and some don’t invest in larger machinery - so if you take you injured puppy to your nearest vet, they may then need to send you to a more distant vets to get the work done - and this may be a different company too.  Therefore, if might be wise to register with a vets that has everything onsite in the first place.

24-hour treatment isn’t offered by all surgeries either - they sometimes share with other vets.  So you could call your normal surgery (5 min drive) at 2 am and they recommend their emergency surgery which happens to be a 45 minute drive away - when if you had checked a vets that is 10 minutes from your house may have their own 24 hour emergency vet!   

Your Pet:
The above 2 examples are more likely to affect you if you have a dog or a cat, but if you have an exotic pet like a skunk, snake, parrot or tortoise, then you may be best to find a vet that specialises in that species rather than take you chances with a ‘normal vet’.

Although a ‘normal’ vet is qualified to medicate and treat all animals, they may not have the continued training in exotics that a specialist has, so might not be able to offer the best solution to your problem - no matter how close they are to your house!

And, they may not have the equipment necessary to deal with it anyway - for example - a boa constrictor wouldn’t last too long in a dog pen, and I know for a fact that most vets do not keep glass tanks and humidistats in their back rooms!

Same goes for horses and goats - I can’t imagine you can just walk into your local surgery with one of those!

posted by admin on Apr 15

This new Act was introduced to make sure that all pets in England and Wales had a basic standard of care.

Whether you are the owner or the keeper of a pet, whether it is large or small or indoors or outside; you are responsible for adhering to the ‘rules’ of this Act, and violation of them could result in the confiscation of your pets and possible criminal prosecution (up to 51 weeks in prison and up to a £20,000 fine).

The guidelines are very easy to understand (and many would say; obvious), and so abiding by them should be easy for any animal lover.

As a pet owner or keeper, you have a legal duty to ensure the welfare of the animals in your care, and you must ensure that the following ‘needs’ are considered at all times:

A Suitable Environment:
This means that it needs to be suitable for that particular animal; for example a horse and a gerbil will have very different ’suitable’ environments!

A Suitable Diet:
This means that it needs to be a suitable diet for that particular animals; for example a dog and a canary would need very different ’suitable’ diets.

Suitable Housing:
This means that they need housing that is suitable for each particular animal.  This is on 2 levels; firstly it must be suitable for each particular animal in the sense that a cat and a tarantula cannot both be kept in the same size cage; and secondly on a compatability level, that a cat and a tarantula should never be kept in the same cage, whatever it’s size! 

To Exhibit Normal Behaviour:
This means that the housing you keep it in and the food you feed it allows the animal to grow and develop normally for it’s breed or species without deformity.  It also means that the animal can move about with ease and isn’t mentally stressed or seen to be suffering in any way. 

Be Protected from Pain and Suffering, Injury and Disease:
This means that the animals must not be kept in conditions that will affect their growth, completely restrict their movement or in a dangerous or hazardous environments.  It also means that if they do become injured, sick or diseased that they will need to be seen by a qualified vet and medical treatment and pain relief (if necessary) sought.

If you are in any doubt about to how to properly care for your pet, ask your local vet or pet store, or contact an animal charity like Dogs Trust or PDSA for advice.

posted by admin on Sep 16

So, you have all the essentials worked out for your new little kittens - but there are still several things that are virtually essential although they don’t contribute to just keeping your kitten healthy - they keep them happy and safe.

Toys - Yes, you can drag old shoelaces along the floor, or you can roll a screwed up piece of paper across the floor - but nothing beats a few specially designed kitten toys to entertain your ball of fluff.

Catnip filled toys are almost an easy answer - as the kitten will just play by itself for hours with these, same goes for a ping pong ball that bounces of everything and gets moved by the wind or passing feet!

Gloves with toys dangling on the fingers makes for a toy to use while you are watching TV and a fishing-rod type toy is perfect for those folks who want to play but can’t bend all the way to the floor!

Scratching Post - Not everyone thinks that these are worth getting - but I always say that a kitten needs to grab with it’s claws and if you don’t supply it with something to use - then it will find something else: your couch, table leg, bed post, staircase, etc - they will use them all.

You don’t need to get a 4 storey one with a bed and rope ladder, but at least get a simple post of around .5 of a meter so that they can stretch right up. And it’s tall enough to wedge infront of whatever it is that they were scratching instead as a diversion!

Collar & Tag - Some people don’t want their kitten (or cat) to wear a collar everyday.

There are stories of them getting snagged or caught (which they do) and there are pussy cats that shed their collars almost every week (which there are), and you can identify your kittens with micro-chips anyway (which you can) - so why make your kitten wear one?

There are so many cats in built up areas these days that it is almost certain that you will come home one day to find someone else cat in your house eating your food of spraying up your counters! And the only way to stop this is to either close all your doors and windows and board-up the cat flap - or get a magnetic cat flap.

Which means your cat needs to wear a collar to put the magnet on.

Therefore, if you have got your kitten used to wearing a collar when it is younger, it won’t mind wearing one when it is older - saving you the effort of training your grumpy older cat to stop pulling his off with the expensive magnet on it!!!

Some people also like their cat to wear a bell on it’s collar to prevent them catching birds and bringing frogs home (which they will)! You’ll find them in your house!

Cat Carrier - You can make do with a large cardboard box when you first collect your kittens, but it is in no way suitable for continued use. For a start you can’t wash it!

Ideally, once you have found your kittens for sale and have agreed a collection date, you should head out to a pet store and buy a plastic cat carrier.

Ideally avoid the wire-cage style as if can be very worrying for your kitten to be so exposed - particularly at the vets where they are on the floor surrounded by legs, people, telephones and (worst of all) loads of dogs!

The more suitable plastic ones have closed in but vented sides and just the one open end for entry. The whole top unclips so they are ideal for storage as well, and with the door detached, they can be used for a cosy kitten bed allowing your felines to get used to using it rather than having an almighty struggle when you need to go to the vets!

Kitten Food - Although this is essential for your kitten - and it will be discussed in detail in a later article - you should really continue to feed you lovely kittens on the food that they are already eating. For at least 4-6 weeks really.

That way they won’t get an upset tummy when they move to your house. They will already be a bit nervous of leaving their mom and starting out in a new home - so the last thing they need is to be fed a totally different food as well.

You should decide what premium kitten food you want to move your kittens over to and have that already in stock after collecting your kittens. Make sure that you have read up all about weaning them over onto it so it all goes smoothly.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Using the list from the introduction, here is a summary of what you need and why you need it. They are covered in 2 groups: Absolute Essentials and Useful Additions.

Absolute Essentials: Your kittens cannot do without the following items (even if they are second-hand). And there are a few tips for each to make sure everything runs smoothly for your new addition!

Water Bowls - It is essential that your kittens have at least one water bowl with clean fresh water in it at all times. Many felines prefer bathroom water or rain water to kitchen tap water as it contains less chemicals - so maybe try different options to see what the cuties prefer.

Also a combined food and water dish is not the best option as the food can fall into the water while eating and then the kittens won’t drink it. And all the while you are washing the food dish - which with wet food can be several times a day - there is no water bowl anyway!

Food Bowls - Each kitten should have their own food bowl - and it only needs to be a small one. Avoid buying dual feeding dishes as many felines prefer not to eat face to face with another feline - it’s like us eating off the same plate as our sisters!

Dishes that are too deep are no god either as they can affect the amount and frequency your kitten eats - imagine having to scoop your dinner out the bottom of a big barrel at meal times! And kittens need to eat a lot of food spread over the day, so it is essential to get the bowls right otherwise they won’t gain weight at the correct rate.

Bed or Blanket - Many kittens won’t always sleep in a bed just because you brought it for them. They like to sleep in a high location out of the way - and preferably somewhere warm and cosy.

So if you decide that you want the cat to sleep in the hallway on the floor and stick a bed there - if it’s too busy, too cold, too low or too near the dog (!) - the cat probably won’t use it. It will just sleep wherever it wants to. And this is where the blankets come in.

You can lay a blanket over the back of the couch, on a window ledge, book shelf, airing cupboard or your bed and it keeps off the hairs!

Litter Tray - As the little kittens will be too tiny to go outside for the first few weeks (and it isn’t advised until after their vaccinations anyway) - they will need a place to go to the toilet in your house somewhere.

It needs to be in a quiet location ideally and away from their normal eating place.

Depending on your needs there are many different shapes and sizes of litter tray available, some are small trays, others and protected tray and others are fully hooded contraptions (which might frighten smaller kittens). It all depends on how clean and scent-free you need the tray to be.

There are different types of cat litter available as well, but your kittens will soon tell you whether they like it or not! It’s best to start with a wood-based or paper-based litter for ease and for absorption, but some older cats prefer the heavier clay variety - so it depends if they have to share!

Even if they intend to be an outdoor cat it’s always good to have trained them to use a litter tray when they are young incase they are ever house-bound due to illness or house-moving and need to stay indoors. Some older cats just won’t be trained!

Other additional accessories for litter trays can include filters, odor eaters, fresheners and litter bags as well as scoops and exit mats! All designed for human comfort. They mean that not only do the owners not have to smell a fresh stool - but they can put the litter tray in places where it otherwise wouldn’t be suitable.

For example, the hooded litter tray with odor eaters and litter bags could be left in the kitchen as an alternative to an open shallow tray with a fresh doodle sitting in it! And when ready to change, just lift the bag out and throw away - no spillage anywhere.

Also, the exit mats and high sided litter tray would mean that litter wasn’t tracked or kicked all over the carpet after each visit!

See you next week to complete your Perfect Kitten Essential Kitten Kit!

posted by admin on Jun 12

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Even though they may still look active and healthy - you must treat your elderly pets differently.

I don’t mean to ignore them or give them more treats - I mean an aging animal has very different requirements to a normal adult dog or cat, in terms of energy needs, general health, amount of exercise and heat tolerance to name a few.

Bearing in mind you may well have had them for 10 years or more since they were a kitten or puppy - surely you want to make the latter years of their life just as enjoyable but not quite so fast-paced or energetic.

What’s Different?
Well, commonly the whole body will be aging, so not only will the bones and joints be a bit worn out - but so could things on the inside.  And of course you can necessarily see these so think that they are ok.

As with humans, they need different levels of vitamins or minerals as they age - as their internal systems start reacting to changing hormones and a general slowing down.  Their mind should still be sharp but their body might not be doing to well to keep up!

The Signs Of Aging:
Dogs and cats don’t get wrinkles and sagging skin, but there are many signs that your beloved oldie needs some special attention.  These include:

Sore Or Damaged Teeth & Gums: This may show up as reduced interest in certain foods or ‘not eating’ their premium dry foods. 

Owners may think that he ‘doesn’t like the taste of them anymore’ and so fall into the trick of commercial wet foods - they don’t prefer the flavour of the wet foods - it’s just that they are soft and don’t hurt their teeth and gums!  Why not just soak his premium dry food in warm water and voila - wet (but good for you) food!

Painful Joints Or Arthritis:  This may show up as reluctance to go for long walks in dogs, not jumping up on the sofa or bed as often, not climbing the stairs or possibly not getting up to greet you in the morning after evening runs.

Basically the dog still wants to enjoy walks and playing with you but either gives up half way as it is too uncomfortable - or continues to chase ball after ball and walking for miles to be with you - but really suffering all night with the pain of it all.  Remember your aching limbs after that one-off mountain climbing session!

Lack of correct nutrients or organ failure: This may well start to show up as loose stools, poor coat or a change in character.  You may notice that your cat has started to soil closer to the house or not to cover it up.  Dogs may well lose weight or get dandruff or excessive molting.

Basically you could be feeding your dog the best food in the world, but if it isn’t scientifically designed for older animals or your pets internal digestive system or heart is not working properly these symptoms may be the first signs that you get to show that there could be something wrong.

Heart Disease:  This may show up as panting a lot, especially when hot.  Now I know that all dogs pant when they are very hot or after heavy exercise - but older dogs are more likely to suffer from some types of heart failure - and particularly certain breeds.

Many owners think that it is always best to take their dogs out with them wherever they go than to leave them at home, but that is not always so.  I would rather leave my dog at home on a sunny day than have her sit in a boiling hot car for the 30 minute journey to the park. 

Unless you have air-conditioning in your vehicle, it just gets too hot for elderly (or very young or hairy) animals to cool off.  Excess panting ensues because the heart cannot pump the blood around the body fast enough to cool it down.  The end result will only be making the heart worse, and we know where that leads!

Mental Boredom:  This may well show up a chewing their feet, over-grooming, destroying furniture or their beds and possibly soiling the house.

As you reduce their exercise due to age or injury they will need something to replace that stimulation - and it needs to be mental stimulation.  Rather than just throwing a ball around for less time or over shorter distances, you need to be stimulating their mind with tricks or new skills.

Why not invest in a Clicker (and a tiny torch for cats) and encourage them to learn a new skill that doesn’t involve too much strenuous activity. Maybe learning to turn in a circle or select a certain toy from the pile will keep them happy inside rather than let them waste away the rest of their lives.  Lack of mobility does not have to mean the end of their fun in life - or yours.

Treat them as you would elderly people.  Be patient, be encouraging and don’t expect them to do what they used to do.  Help them find new things to entertain and amuse them and keep your favorite pet happy!

posted by admin on May 7

The Feline Leukemia Virus is also known as FeLV and can infect any cat that hasn’t been vaccinated for this virus.

The virus is associated with lympho-sarcoma (lymph gland tumours) but can also affect the thymus, spleen and gut wall.  As the lymph glands are affected, this can lead to a form of immuno-suppression, making the animal prone to other infections.

Symptoms of Feline Leukemia:
An un-vaccinated cat will start to show symptoms of feline leukemia only after about 3 years!  It has a very long incubation period - although laboratory tests before this time can confirm the disease.

If your cat started showing symptoms they would probably include a high temperature initially, with noticeable lethargy (sleeping more than usual or not wanting to play and chase as normal).  It is possible that there would be a noticeable lack of appetite, although this could possibly be very difficult to spot when many cats are feeding from the same bowls.  

It is possible you will notice swollen lymph glands, but this would only be found with a proper check of the appropriate areas - they wouldn’t be felt with just regular stroking!

Persistent dental problems and gingivitis are common with this type of long-term infection.

If the virus remains active in the cats body, then the cat will be at risk of developing further disease.

Noticeable (clinical) signs of Feline Leukemia vary depending on where the Feline Leukemia virus is replicating - making more of itself - as this organ will be most affected and will probably develop a tumour.  The Feline Leukemia virus usually also involves the red blood cells in some way and can lead to related signs such as anaemia and immuno-suppression. 

If only found present late on in a cat, symptoms may well be secondary infections like bladder problems (cystitis) or other infectious diseases as the cat’s body can no longer defend itself from attack.

A positive diagnosis would need a blood or saliva test in a laboratory.

Is Feline Leukemia contagious?
Yes, and multi-cat households and breeding farms are most at risk.

A persistently infected cat can pass it on to all other cats in the household, and the only effective action is to permanently remove the infected cat from house. 

The virus is passed on through close intimate contact such as intercourse, saliva and blood.  So cat fights, same dish feeding and breeding can all spread the disease.

Feline Leukemia Treatment:
There is no cure for Feline Leukemia, and surviving Feline Leukemia is likely to be treatment that is symptom related, so removal of tumours, a course of anti-biotics for infections, etc.  The cats life will no doubt be shortened and possibly filled with illness.  It can sometimes shorten the cats life to just a few years after initial symptoms were spotted.

Sadly, the readily available vaccination would have prevented initial infection with the virus anyway, but not everyone vaccinates regularly, thinking it ‘won’t happen to them’.

In addition, make sure that any new cats entering your home or breeding cattery have been tested clear for FeLV and are vaccinated before putting your own cats at risk.