Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Aug 10

Not many people think of cat breeds when they think of cats - to most people; Cats are just Cats!

So, what I have done is to put together a list of the 5 most popular cat breeds in the the UK today, and a little description of each one.  This way you can get an idea of what is out there.

1) The Persian:
This long-haired cat breed always wins hearts!  With it’s flowing coat that comes in a huge variety of colours and it’s gentle nature (if properly groomed!) can make almost everyone go ‘ahh!’.  They have a long history of being a show cat and love to be pampered and to just sit on a lap or cushion and be stroked!

2) The Siamese:
This breed is the noisy one of the bunch!  They love to be heard over everything else - and can be very persuasive pets!  Their very short coat makes for low maintenance in that department, but they are very active - and very long-lived so can keep you on you toes for over 16 years!  Modern breeding has made for a much more ‘pointy’ cat - but the older style is still very in demand.

3) The Maine Coon:
A highly desirable large cat - and ever so family friendly.  One of the oldest known cat breeds from the US - this breed is found all over the world even today.  It’s thick insulating coat is great for all weathers, and it’s relaxed attitude wins it many human friends!  Once thought to be a cross between domestic cats and raccoons (!), this large breed cannot be mistaken for a standard moggie!

4) The British ShortHair:
Recently overtaking the Persian in UK show registrations, this very soft and very colourful breed is really increasing in popularity.  With huge eyes and a thick cuddly appearance - they make the most adorable kittens!  The males are considerably larger than the females and develop the large ‘jowls’ on their faces as they mature.  The blue colouring was so widespread at one point that it gained it’s own name: the British Blue - still winning shows today! 

5) The Ragdoll:
This delightful breed of cat is one of the most relaxed.  Not wanting to chase birds and rodents al the time, or destroy furniture and curtains by climbing all over the place - these cats make great indoor pets.  They all have striking blue eyes - the brighter the better for showing - but all stem from one American breeder with a single male and 2 females!

There are plenty more cat breeds out there, but hopefully this gives you an idea of those breeds you are likely to see for sale near you.

posted by admin on Jul 5

People always love a Top 10 these days, so I put together this list of the dog breeds we love the most.

Obviously, everyone has their own favourite - and this list shows those most favoured by the nation.  And if you look closely - these are the one’s you are most likely to see walking in the park!

However, many people opt for a rescue dog, so don’t actually get the breed they like most - just the one that needed a loving home!  So, there are plenty of dog lovers out there with just any old crossbreed or mongrel that they love to pieces!

1) The Faithful Labrador Retriever - Golden, Black, then Chocolate!

2) The Energetic Border Collie - Loved for the agility and enthusiasm.

3) The Boisterous Jack Russell Terrier - In either long-legged or short-legged varieties.

4) The Elegant Yorkshire Terrier - A very handsome small dog, with a long history. 

5) The Reliable German Shepherd - Either Black & Tan, Sable, Black or White - Standard or Long-Haired too.

6) The Fluffy Bichon Frise - A perfectly shaped little dog - that the kids love to pamper!

7) The Chunky Rottweiler - A well-natured large dog breed that can be really affectionate.

8.) The Spotty Dalmation - An eager breed that loves training sessions and exciting walks!

9) The Dainty Cocker Spaniel - The perfect pooch for both families and couples, and comes in many colours.

10) And finally, the Shih Tzu - A short-legged breed that is very popular with the ladies!

Others breeds just outside of the Top 10 include the Golden Retriever, Labradoodle, Greyhound and of course, the Chihuahua!

There are also a lot of ‘new breeds’ cropping up all the time - but they are basically puffed up Cross-breeds and they may only be first or second generation anyway.  These were all sparked off by the original - the Labradoodle - whereby people were choosing the best quality from each breed and hoping the puppies took both: Like easy to train (Labrador) and not moulting (Poodle). 

We now have Cockerpoo’s (Cocker Spaniels and Poodles), Gointers (Golden Retrievers and Pointers) and even Puggles (Pugs and Beagles).  And it doesn’t end there!

posted by admin on Jun 4

It’s not a case of whether you lose your pet - it’s more about getting it back!

Many pet owners don’t seem to realise how terrible it is to lose a pet, and just because their little pet seems to always be at home or is rarely off the lead - they assume it can never get lost.

It can - and many many many pets every year get lost - and only a few ever make it back home.

The Problem:
Well, I have worked for animal rescue centres and veterinary surgeries and the number of times we get a phone call to say that someone has lost their black cat, or their pedigree dog.

Now, I don’t know if you know this but there are about a million black cats that all look - well, black.  And let’s be honest, there really isn’t much difference to the layman’s eye between 1 Yorkshire Terrier and the next - I mean they are bred to all look roughly the same, aren’t they?

And, obviously unless you call every vet, rescue centre, pet store or well being neighbour, you might not ever be matched up to your pet again.  Say for example your cat had been asleep in a car that drove off 20 miles before the cat jumped out - would you have called the vets that far from home?

What if your dog got lost while you were out in the local woods and ended up following another owner to the car.  They might not find you or want to leave your dog alone - so thinking they are helping might take your dog with them and report it to their own vet - which is completely on the other side of the woods to you! Or you are on holiday, miles from home?

And don’t think your pets collar will help either - many owners don’t put their full details on them anyway - and many tags - and collars - can (and do) fall off!

We know that animals get lost all the time whether you want to believe it or not - but what if there was a way to give you pet an unmistakable, unremovable id tag that will bring them home everytime?

That’s A MicroChip!
A tiny chip can easily and cheaply be implanted into your pet - from cat to rabbit, ferret to horse and dog to tortoise - and you need never worry about getting your pet returned to you when it is found.

They just need the one chip implanted and that is it for the animal!  There are no ongoing costs for the owner - but obviously you need to keep your contact details updated everytime they change so if they need to contact you, they have the best number!

Every veterinary surgery or rescue centre will ALWAYS scan a found animal looking for a microchip as this is the fastest and easiest way to find the owner.  So as long as your lost pet turns up in one of these places - you will be reunited.

They will also scan these animals if their owners are asking for it to be microchipped for them or when an abandoned animal arrives in a shelter.  This has lead to some amazing reunions!

A lost or seemingly abandoned animal may sometimes be adopted in by a new home, and when that new owner wants them ‘chipped or finally takes them to a rescue centre - your details will pop up as the rightful owner!

Also, if a pet is injured or killed on the road and taken to a veterinary surgery, it will also be scanned for a chip.

June 2010:
This month is national MicroChipping Week in the UK - so make sure you take advantage of surgeries and rescue centres offering reduced implantation - and plenty of them are!

I mean, it is to their advantage too. The sooner they can find out about any existing medical conditions an injured ‘lost’ pet has - the sooner they can offer the best treatment. And rescue centres don’t want to raise valuable donations looking after your dog for a week while you try to find it! They would rather it was home the same day, back with it’s owner rather than scared stiff in a noisy kennel!

Also, if your pets are already ‘chipped - take this as a gentle reminder to update your Chip Company with the correct contact details!

It will be the best thing you ever did for your pet!

posted by admin on May 25

This article details all you need to know as a beginner about a year in the life of a bat in the UK: 

Animal Type: Mammalia - Chiroptera

Species Info: There are 2 main Orders of bats in the world: Megachiroptera and Microchiroptera - but only the latter are found in the UK. 

UK Distribution:There are 17 species of Bat in the UK, with all these found in the South including the tiny Pipistrelle (only 5 grams) and the larger Daubenton’s and Noctule Bats, with only a few species found in the North.

Preferred Habitat: Around water (as this attracts their insect prey) and in quiet locations - although are quite happy to live in towns on canals or by lakes.  They need roosting sites nearby to where they feed - one for hibernating and another for summer roosting, so a variety of buildings, caves and holes in trees (or bat boxes) are essential.

In Spring:  Waking Up After Hibernation.
In early March, bats may still be hibernating but some will start to feed if necessary - however April is the month that you are most likely to start seeing many bats feeding at night in the UK.  By May there will be plenty of activity in the Bat world as the females are actively looking for communal nursery sites in which to have their young.

In Summer:  Giving Birth & Young Taking To The Skies.
The young are usually born in June (usually only 1 young per female per year).  These young stay in the nursery though most of July, building up strength until they start to leave the nest in August.  After the young have left, the females go off in search of males to mate with.

In Autumn:  Mating & Searching For A Hibernation Site.
The adult males and females spend most of September mating, as well as starting to build up fat reserves for the winter ahead by feasting on insects.  If the weather stays warm there could still be feeding into November, but when temperatures start to drop, the bats start to hibernate.

In Winter:  All UK Bats Are Hibernating.
You will rarely see a Bat through the cold winter as they will be be hibernating somewhere quiet and secure.  As the winter moves on they will stay in that place, gradually using up their fat reserves to stay alive.  Only when temperatures warm up nearing Spring will they naturally begin to stir and set out hunting again.

UK/World Events: 
May: UK National Moth & Bat Night
August: European Bat Weekend

Bat Groups:
UK - Bat Conservation Trust
US - Bat Conservation International
Other - South-East Asia Bat Conservation

Other Information:
Bats in the UK are protected by strict laws and you can be liable for a fine of up to £5000 and possible imprisonment per incident or ‘per bat’ if you deliberately capture, injure or kill a bat, destroy a roost - even if not in use, or intentionally block access to a bat roost.  So call an expert if in doubt!

posted by admin on Apr 22

When choosing small rodents, hamsters and mice are 2 of the most popular pets - but what’s the difference?

 There are many many many types of small animals you can now buy to share your home, but the hamster (not hampster) is one of the leading choices amongst pet owners - with the ‘teddy bear hamster’ being a popular color.  However, there has always been a small following for mouse lovers - and now they are becoming common in many pet stores, more people are trying them for the first time.

So, what exactly is the difference between them?

Here, we take a quick look at the best of each and their basic requirements - and how to choose between them!

Tanks Or A Cage?
Hamster cages are everywhere and come in all shapes and sizes, and unlike bird cages, hamster cages are usually not as tall - unless they have several layers.  They also come with a house, wheel and maybe some tubes to play in.

However fun they look, the distance between the bars for most hamster and bird cages is too big for a mouse - and a little one could easily just climb straight through and escape!  If you can fit your finger in through the bars, a mouse can get out - I’ve seen it!

Therefore, you either need to buy a specific mouse cage (which has tiny gaps between the bars) or ideally get yourself one of the many fish tanks that are available, or a plastic rodent cage instead.

What Do Mice Eat?
Unlike hamsters that get by on one of the standard grain and biscuit mixes (with a bit of fresh veg every so often), mice tend to do better on a higher protein mix, like that fed to rats.  And ideally very little cheese as it upsets their tummy!

They tend not to overeat, and they don’t tend to hoard their food like hamsters do.  The number of hamster videos online showing a hamster shove all it’s daily food into it’s mouth pouches and run off only to empty it all out into it’s little house and come back for more testify to this rather wasteful and expensive (although funny) habit of hamsters!

How Long Do They Live?
A hamster could easily live up to 18 months, or up to 3 years if you are lucky!  Whereas a mouse will rarely see past it’s 1st birthday!

Saying this, both can die as young as 6 months for no reason other than they just do!

Can They Live Together?
Hamsters and mice can never live together.  Syrian hamsters (the most common type) are not animal friendly - and they won’t even live with other Syrian hamsters, let alone a mouse!

Mice on the other hand usually get on fine together if introduced properly and in the right sized cages or tanks. Although, just like people they can occasionally fight each other, or just want to live alone, so don’t assume yours will live together forever!

And unless you want constant mouse babies, I suggest you keep mice of the same sex!

Do They Come In Different Sizes?
Mice are tiny little things, and although they are so small, they are easy to hold - and being that they are active throughout the day, they are less likely to be grumpy when you pick them up (as hamsters sleep during the day they are usually always grumpy when you wake them up!).  If you want bigger mice - get rats!

However, Syrian hamsters are as big as they come (unless you want a groundhog) but they do come smaller.  Dwarf hamsters need mouse-style cages or tanks, but they can live together!  There are 3 types of dwarf hamster; Russian hamsters, Chinese dwarf hamsters and Roborovski’s dwarf hamster - non are really suitable for tiny children though.

Still not sure?  Well mice have long tails - so check with your mum first if you live at home!

posted by admin on Apr 15

This new Act was introduced to make sure that all pets in England and Wales had a basic standard of care.

Whether you are the owner or the keeper of a pet, whether it is large or small or indoors or outside; you are responsible for adhering to the ‘rules’ of this Act, and violation of them could result in the confiscation of your pets and possible criminal prosecution (up to 51 weeks in prison and up to a £20,000 fine).

The guidelines are very easy to understand (and many would say; obvious), and so abiding by them should be easy for any animal lover.

As a pet owner or keeper, you have a legal duty to ensure the welfare of the animals in your care, and you must ensure that the following ‘needs’ are considered at all times:

A Suitable Environment:
This means that it needs to be suitable for that particular animal; for example a horse and a gerbil will have very different ’suitable’ environments!

A Suitable Diet:
This means that it needs to be a suitable diet for that particular animals; for example a dog and a canary would need very different ’suitable’ diets.

Suitable Housing:
This means that they need housing that is suitable for each particular animal.  This is on 2 levels; firstly it must be suitable for each particular animal in the sense that a cat and a tarantula cannot both be kept in the same size cage; and secondly on a compatability level, that a cat and a tarantula should never be kept in the same cage, whatever it’s size! 

To Exhibit Normal Behaviour:
This means that the housing you keep it in and the food you feed it allows the animal to grow and develop normally for it’s breed or species without deformity.  It also means that the animal can move about with ease and isn’t mentally stressed or seen to be suffering in any way. 

Be Protected from Pain and Suffering, Injury and Disease:
This means that the animals must not be kept in conditions that will affect their growth, completely restrict their movement or in a dangerous or hazardous environments.  It also means that if they do become injured, sick or diseased that they will need to be seen by a qualified vet and medical treatment and pain relief (if necessary) sought.

If you are in any doubt about to how to properly care for your pet, ask your local vet or pet store, or contact an animal charity like Dogs Trust or PDSA for advice.

posted by admin on Apr 10

The weather is getting warmer - so you might as well go out and enjoy it!

So why not consider re-homing a dog or puppy over the next few weeks so that you have got a friend to take with you!

There are thousands of dogs out there that just need a loving home.  You don’t need to go to the ‘big’ rescue centres to find them, there are plenty of private or small scale re-homing centres that have a few pets out there for you to choose from.

There are a few things you need to do before they will consider you, but all their ‘adoption rules’ are there for a reason - they follow their own principals.  So some centres will want you to just be a stable home for their dogs, others will want you to prove that you are right for the dog (including no kids if the dog doesn’t like kids, no cats if it doesn’t like cats, and so on) and yet others want you to fence in your entire garden, not be too old and sometimes to never have a job again so you can be at home with it for ever!

Obviously, you need to do your research to find out which policies suit your needs - and of course to find a dog that you actually like in the first place! However - if you are re-homing a dog for the ‘good deed’ of finding a dog a home, then shouldn’t you take the one that noone else wants?

If you only want the cute pretty little ones that everyone else wants, then who is going to love the old or ugly looking ones?

Things To Consider Before Starting Out:
So, if you are considering re-homing a new pet, then just check out the following list to make sure you have everything covered:

1) If you want a specific pedigree dog breed, then be prepared to wait.  Hoping that someone wants to give up their Rhodesian Ridgeback or Japanese Akita is a long shot, so do you want a dog now, or do you just want that breed and you will wait up to 5 years or more until it arrives?

2) If you want a pretty, cute or young dog, then join the queue!  Most people want their dog to look a certain way, and for it to be young, so you will be added to a long list of people who are already waiting!  If you want to give an older or less fluffy dog a home, then you could well get your new pet a lot quicker!

3) If you want to use the ‘big charities’ then be prepared to make some changes to your home or lifestyle.  They will require proper fencing in your yard, several meetings and ‘checks’ before you even choose a dog, and there could be ongoing visits after you have taken your new dog home.

4) If you have young children, other dogs or cats, a full time job, or live in a flat - you could well not get the dog you choose anyway!  Many re-homing centers these days find the right home for the dog’s needs - not yours.  So if that cute dog you like has been deemed ‘unsuitable for families’ or that giant mastiff ‘chases cats’, then you won’t even get a look in!  They might offer you a tiny teacup dog instead!

5) If you want your dog quick - then start now!  Even with the simplest procedures, there could still be a few checks and changes to be made to your home!  The sooner you get going - the sooner you can be out there enjoying the sunshine with your new ‘Fido’!

posted by admin on Sep 16

So, you have all the essentials worked out for your new little kittens - but there are still several things that are virtually essential although they don’t contribute to just keeping your kitten healthy - they keep them happy and safe.

Toys - Yes, you can drag old shoelaces along the floor, or you can roll a screwed up piece of paper across the floor - but nothing beats a few specially designed kitten toys to entertain your ball of fluff.

Catnip filled toys are almost an easy answer - as the kitten will just play by itself for hours with these, same goes for a ping pong ball that bounces of everything and gets moved by the wind or passing feet!

Gloves with toys dangling on the fingers makes for a toy to use while you are watching TV and a fishing-rod type toy is perfect for those folks who want to play but can’t bend all the way to the floor!

Scratching Post - Not everyone thinks that these are worth getting - but I always say that a kitten needs to grab with it’s claws and if you don’t supply it with something to use - then it will find something else: your couch, table leg, bed post, staircase, etc - they will use them all.

You don’t need to get a 4 storey one with a bed and rope ladder, but at least get a simple post of around .5 of a meter so that they can stretch right up. And it’s tall enough to wedge infront of whatever it is that they were scratching instead as a diversion!

Collar & Tag - Some people don’t want their kitten (or cat) to wear a collar everyday.

There are stories of them getting snagged or caught (which they do) and there are pussy cats that shed their collars almost every week (which there are), and you can identify your kittens with micro-chips anyway (which you can) - so why make your kitten wear one?

There are so many cats in built up areas these days that it is almost certain that you will come home one day to find someone else cat in your house eating your food of spraying up your counters! And the only way to stop this is to either close all your doors and windows and board-up the cat flap - or get a magnetic cat flap.

Which means your cat needs to wear a collar to put the magnet on.

Therefore, if you have got your kitten used to wearing a collar when it is younger, it won’t mind wearing one when it is older - saving you the effort of training your grumpy older cat to stop pulling his off with the expensive magnet on it!!!

Some people also like their cat to wear a bell on it’s collar to prevent them catching birds and bringing frogs home (which they will)! You’ll find them in your house!

Cat Carrier - You can make do with a large cardboard box when you first collect your kittens, but it is in no way suitable for continued use. For a start you can’t wash it!

Ideally, once you have found your kittens for sale and have agreed a collection date, you should head out to a pet store and buy a plastic cat carrier.

Ideally avoid the wire-cage style as if can be very worrying for your kitten to be so exposed - particularly at the vets where they are on the floor surrounded by legs, people, telephones and (worst of all) loads of dogs!

The more suitable plastic ones have closed in but vented sides and just the one open end for entry. The whole top unclips so they are ideal for storage as well, and with the door detached, they can be used for a cosy kitten bed allowing your felines to get used to using it rather than having an almighty struggle when you need to go to the vets!

Kitten Food - Although this is essential for your kitten - and it will be discussed in detail in a later article - you should really continue to feed you lovely kittens on the food that they are already eating. For at least 4-6 weeks really.

That way they won’t get an upset tummy when they move to your house. They will already be a bit nervous of leaving their mom and starting out in a new home - so the last thing they need is to be fed a totally different food as well.

You should decide what premium kitten food you want to move your kittens over to and have that already in stock after collecting your kittens. Make sure that you have read up all about weaning them over onto it so it all goes smoothly.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Using the list from the introduction, here is a summary of what you need and why you need it. They are covered in 2 groups: Absolute Essentials and Useful Additions.

Absolute Essentials: Your kittens cannot do without the following items (even if they are second-hand). And there are a few tips for each to make sure everything runs smoothly for your new addition!

Water Bowls - It is essential that your kittens have at least one water bowl with clean fresh water in it at all times. Many felines prefer bathroom water or rain water to kitchen tap water as it contains less chemicals - so maybe try different options to see what the cuties prefer.

Also a combined food and water dish is not the best option as the food can fall into the water while eating and then the kittens won’t drink it. And all the while you are washing the food dish - which with wet food can be several times a day - there is no water bowl anyway!

Food Bowls - Each kitten should have their own food bowl - and it only needs to be a small one. Avoid buying dual feeding dishes as many felines prefer not to eat face to face with another feline - it’s like us eating off the same plate as our sisters!

Dishes that are too deep are no god either as they can affect the amount and frequency your kitten eats - imagine having to scoop your dinner out the bottom of a big barrel at meal times! And kittens need to eat a lot of food spread over the day, so it is essential to get the bowls right otherwise they won’t gain weight at the correct rate.

Bed or Blanket - Many kittens won’t always sleep in a bed just because you brought it for them. They like to sleep in a high location out of the way - and preferably somewhere warm and cosy.

So if you decide that you want the cat to sleep in the hallway on the floor and stick a bed there - if it’s too busy, too cold, too low or too near the dog (!) - the cat probably won’t use it. It will just sleep wherever it wants to. And this is where the blankets come in.

You can lay a blanket over the back of the couch, on a window ledge, book shelf, airing cupboard or your bed and it keeps off the hairs!

Litter Tray - As the little kittens will be too tiny to go outside for the first few weeks (and it isn’t advised until after their vaccinations anyway) - they will need a place to go to the toilet in your house somewhere.

It needs to be in a quiet location ideally and away from their normal eating place.

Depending on your needs there are many different shapes and sizes of litter tray available, some are small trays, others and protected tray and others are fully hooded contraptions (which might frighten smaller kittens). It all depends on how clean and scent-free you need the tray to be.

There are different types of cat litter available as well, but your kittens will soon tell you whether they like it or not! It’s best to start with a wood-based or paper-based litter for ease and for absorption, but some older cats prefer the heavier clay variety - so it depends if they have to share!

Even if they intend to be an outdoor cat it’s always good to have trained them to use a litter tray when they are young incase they are ever house-bound due to illness or house-moving and need to stay indoors. Some older cats just won’t be trained!

Other additional accessories for litter trays can include filters, odor eaters, fresheners and litter bags as well as scoops and exit mats! All designed for human comfort. They mean that not only do the owners not have to smell a fresh stool - but they can put the litter tray in places where it otherwise wouldn’t be suitable.

For example, the hooded litter tray with odor eaters and litter bags could be left in the kitchen as an alternative to an open shallow tray with a fresh doodle sitting in it! And when ready to change, just lift the bag out and throw away - no spillage anywhere.

Also, the exit mats and high sided litter tray would mean that litter wasn’t tracked or kicked all over the carpet after each visit!

See you next week to complete your Perfect Kitten Essential Kitten Kit!

posted by admin on Sep 4

So, you have decided to get yourself one or two cute kittens at last!

Great choice - so now you need to start getting everything ready for the big day when you collect your little kittens and bring them home.

Whether it’s a flame point Himalayan kitten you want or just a ginger tabby, they all need the same basic care when they are young - and their first 12 months could influence the rest of their lives - and yours!!

Planning:
There is nothing worse than getting the kittens first and then having to rush around buying whatever you think you need there and then.

Not only will the kittens become stressed at your rushing around with them, or at being left at home alone while you drive around the stores - but you may end up buying the wrong things simply because they are the only things you can find in time!

Not a very good start to your lives together.

So it makes sense to plan ahead and get the essentials ready in advance. And here’s the basic list for starters:

Water Bowls
Food Bowls
Bed or Blanket
Litter Tray & Cat Litter
Scratching Post
Selection of Toys
Safe Cat Carrier
Collar & Tag
Kitten Food

Obviously there are many things to consider with all of these items depending on your requirements, the number of other pets and children in the house and the requirements and choices of your kitten over the first few months.

And this series in the Perfect Kitten Guide starts with Part 1 of your Essential Starter Kitten Kit starting next week.