Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Sep 16

So, you have all the essentials worked out for your new little kittens - but there are still several things that are virtually essential although they don’t contribute to just keeping your kitten healthy - they keep them happy and safe.

Toys - Yes, you can drag old shoelaces along the floor, or you can roll a screwed up piece of paper across the floor - but nothing beats a few specially designed kitten toys to entertain your ball of fluff.

Catnip filled toys are almost an easy answer - as the kitten will just play by itself for hours with these, same goes for a ping pong ball that bounces of everything and gets moved by the wind or passing feet!

Gloves with toys dangling on the fingers makes for a toy to use while you are watching TV and a fishing-rod type toy is perfect for those folks who want to play but can’t bend all the way to the floor!

Scratching Post - Not everyone thinks that these are worth getting - but I always say that a kitten needs to grab with it’s claws and if you don’t supply it with something to use - then it will find something else: your couch, table leg, bed post, staircase, etc - they will use them all.

You don’t need to get a 4 storey one with a bed and rope ladder, but at least get a simple post of around .5 of a meter so that they can stretch right up. And it’s tall enough to wedge infront of whatever it is that they were scratching instead as a diversion!

Collar & Tag - Some people don’t want their kitten (or cat) to wear a collar everyday.

There are stories of them getting snagged or caught (which they do) and there are pussy cats that shed their collars almost every week (which there are), and you can identify your kittens with micro-chips anyway (which you can) - so why make your kitten wear one?

There are so many cats in built up areas these days that it is almost certain that you will come home one day to find someone else cat in your house eating your food of spraying up your counters! And the only way to stop this is to either close all your doors and windows and board-up the cat flap - or get a magnetic cat flap.

Which means your cat needs to wear a collar to put the magnet on.

Therefore, if you have got your kitten used to wearing a collar when it is younger, it won’t mind wearing one when it is older - saving you the effort of training your grumpy older cat to stop pulling his off with the expensive magnet on it!!!

Some people also like their cat to wear a bell on it’s collar to prevent them catching birds and bringing frogs home (which they will)! You’ll find them in your house!

Cat Carrier - You can make do with a large cardboard box when you first collect your kittens, but it is in no way suitable for continued use. For a start you can’t wash it!

Ideally, once you have found your kittens for sale and have agreed a collection date, you should head out to a pet store and buy a plastic cat carrier.

Ideally avoid the wire-cage style as if can be very worrying for your kitten to be so exposed - particularly at the vets where they are on the floor surrounded by legs, people, telephones and (worst of all) loads of dogs!

The more suitable plastic ones have closed in but vented sides and just the one open end for entry. The whole top unclips so they are ideal for storage as well, and with the door detached, they can be used for a cosy kitten bed allowing your felines to get used to using it rather than having an almighty struggle when you need to go to the vets!

Kitten Food - Although this is essential for your kitten - and it will be discussed in detail in a later article - you should really continue to feed you lovely kittens on the food that they are already eating. For at least 4-6 weeks really.

That way they won’t get an upset tummy when they move to your house. They will already be a bit nervous of leaving their mom and starting out in a new home - so the last thing they need is to be fed a totally different food as well.

You should decide what premium kitten food you want to move your kittens over to and have that already in stock after collecting your kittens. Make sure that you have read up all about weaning them over onto it so it all goes smoothly.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Using the list from the introduction, here is a summary of what you need and why you need it. They are covered in 2 groups: Absolute Essentials and Useful Additions.

Absolute Essentials: Your kittens cannot do without the following items (even if they are second-hand). And there are a few tips for each to make sure everything runs smoothly for your new addition!

Water Bowls - It is essential that your kittens have at least one water bowl with clean fresh water in it at all times. Many felines prefer bathroom water or rain water to kitchen tap water as it contains less chemicals - so maybe try different options to see what the cuties prefer.

Also a combined food and water dish is not the best option as the food can fall into the water while eating and then the kittens won’t drink it. And all the while you are washing the food dish - which with wet food can be several times a day - there is no water bowl anyway!

Food Bowls - Each kitten should have their own food bowl - and it only needs to be a small one. Avoid buying dual feeding dishes as many felines prefer not to eat face to face with another feline - it’s like us eating off the same plate as our sisters!

Dishes that are too deep are no god either as they can affect the amount and frequency your kitten eats - imagine having to scoop your dinner out the bottom of a big barrel at meal times! And kittens need to eat a lot of food spread over the day, so it is essential to get the bowls right otherwise they won’t gain weight at the correct rate.

Bed or Blanket - Many kittens won’t always sleep in a bed just because you brought it for them. They like to sleep in a high location out of the way - and preferably somewhere warm and cosy.

So if you decide that you want the cat to sleep in the hallway on the floor and stick a bed there - if it’s too busy, too cold, too low or too near the dog (!) - the cat probably won’t use it. It will just sleep wherever it wants to. And this is where the blankets come in.

You can lay a blanket over the back of the couch, on a window ledge, book shelf, airing cupboard or your bed and it keeps off the hairs!

Litter Tray - As the little kittens will be too tiny to go outside for the first few weeks (and it isn’t advised until after their vaccinations anyway) - they will need a place to go to the toilet in your house somewhere.

It needs to be in a quiet location ideally and away from their normal eating place.

Depending on your needs there are many different shapes and sizes of litter tray available, some are small trays, others and protected tray and others are fully hooded contraptions (which might frighten smaller kittens). It all depends on how clean and scent-free you need the tray to be.

There are different types of cat litter available as well, but your kittens will soon tell you whether they like it or not! It’s best to start with a wood-based or paper-based litter for ease and for absorption, but some older cats prefer the heavier clay variety - so it depends if they have to share!

Even if they intend to be an outdoor cat it’s always good to have trained them to use a litter tray when they are young incase they are ever house-bound due to illness or house-moving and need to stay indoors. Some older cats just won’t be trained!

Other additional accessories for litter trays can include filters, odor eaters, fresheners and litter bags as well as scoops and exit mats! All designed for human comfort. They mean that not only do the owners not have to smell a fresh stool - but they can put the litter tray in places where it otherwise wouldn’t be suitable.

For example, the hooded litter tray with odor eaters and litter bags could be left in the kitchen as an alternative to an open shallow tray with a fresh doodle sitting in it! And when ready to change, just lift the bag out and throw away - no spillage anywhere.

Also, the exit mats and high sided litter tray would mean that litter wasn’t tracked or kicked all over the carpet after each visit!

See you next week to complete your Perfect Kitten Essential Kitten Kit!

posted by admin on Sep 4

So, you have decided to get yourself one or two cute kittens at last!

Great choice - so now you need to start getting everything ready for the big day when you collect your little kittens and bring them home.

Whether it’s a flame point Himalayan kitten you want or just a ginger tabby, they all need the same basic care when they are young - and their first 12 months could influence the rest of their lives - and yours!!

Planning:
There is nothing worse than getting the kittens first and then having to rush around buying whatever you think you need there and then.

Not only will the kittens become stressed at your rushing around with them, or at being left at home alone while you drive around the stores - but you may end up buying the wrong things simply because they are the only things you can find in time!

Not a very good start to your lives together.

So it makes sense to plan ahead and get the essentials ready in advance. And here’s the basic list for starters:

Water Bowls
Food Bowls
Bed or Blanket
Litter Tray & Cat Litter
Scratching Post
Selection of Toys
Safe Cat Carrier
Collar & Tag
Kitten Food

Obviously there are many things to consider with all of these items depending on your requirements, the number of other pets and children in the house and the requirements and choices of your kitten over the first few months.

And this series in the Perfect Kitten Guide starts with Part 1 of your Essential Starter Kitten Kit starting next week.

posted by admin on Aug 11

Don’t neglect your dogs teeth.

They need to be looked after just as much as a humans - especially if you are feeding moist foods - or you have a breed prone to dental problems like sight hounds or toy dogs.

Dental problem can cost a lot of money at the vets - and can be really painful for your pet. And it is all virtually avoidable. Don’t wait until your dog gets into trouble - and never assume your dog is too old to make a difference!

What Is The Problem?
Most dog food and treats contain sugar - need I explain!

I can virtually guarantee that if you are feeding a moist or dry commercial pet food - one that is available in your local food store - it contains sugar (or sometimes listed in the ingredients as caramel, glucose).

These sticky, moist food might taste nice with all it’s additives, but it will stick to the teeth and do damage.

As it is wet - it also has no abrasive action so there is no general scraping of the teeth during eating. Some people sometimes add biscuits to the wet food - but this can only do so much!

What’s The Solution?
Well, dry food can help to increase the abrasion of teeth while eating and therefore keep your dogs teeth free of dental build-up - however, do make sure that your dry food doesn’t contain colors or sugars - other wise you may as well be cleaning their teeth with icing!

Dogs teeth are natually strong and they can eat most whole animals products (like actual animal flesh, jerky and bones) without too much trouble - but as with humans, if you add sugars or highly-processed foods to your diet - you are asking for dental decay!

Therefore you have one of 2 solutions that are very easy to add to your pets routine:

1) Feed your dog anything you want to but clean it’s teeth regularly with pet-friendly toothpaste, or;
2) Feed your dog premium dry foods (that don’t contain sugars) and only feed healthy treats and let the teeth keep themselves clean.

There are, of course, breeds of dog like Yorkshire Terriers and many sight hounds that are genetically prone to ‘bad teeth’, so these dogs may need extra attention which ever method you choose.

posted by admin on Jul 1

Do you want your cute puppy to be the star of the show?

Now you have the chance! You could have your little pooch seen around the world in National Geographic’s photographic competition in just a few seconds. Just upload your best shots and see your pet on the Internet!

It really is that simple.

What Do I Do?
Well, all you need to do is register with National Geographic with their easy form and get up-loading. It really couldn’t be any simpler!

It’s easy to have a look at the current gallery of snaps to see what everyone else is adding - some are soo cute! - and maybe it can inspire you to take more shots yourself!  But if you can see their pictures - then everyone will be able to see yours!

International dog-loving viewers could be downloading a picture of your retriever swimming in a lake for their home laptop or a shot of your chihuahua sleeping on the couch for their computers wallpaper.

Your poodle sitting in a flower pot or your Great Dane squashing your uncle in the car could be turned into a puzzle that thousands of people can play each day!

There is every chance that your dog shots could inspire people to either take up photography or get themselves a life-long companion! Or just make them laugh.

So, Do You Want to be a part of it?

Then get snapping - and get snappy! The sooner you register, the sooner the world can get to meet your dog!

posted by admin on Jun 12

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Even though they may still look active and healthy - you must treat your elderly pets differently.

I don’t mean to ignore them or give them more treats - I mean an aging animal has very different requirements to a normal adult dog or cat, in terms of energy needs, general health, amount of exercise and heat tolerance to name a few.

Bearing in mind you may well have had them for 10 years or more since they were a kitten or puppy - surely you want to make the latter years of their life just as enjoyable but not quite so fast-paced or energetic.

What’s Different?
Well, commonly the whole body will be aging, so not only will the bones and joints be a bit worn out - but so could things on the inside.  And of course you can necessarily see these so think that they are ok.

As with humans, they need different levels of vitamins or minerals as they age - as their internal systems start reacting to changing hormones and a general slowing down.  Their mind should still be sharp but their body might not be doing to well to keep up!

The Signs Of Aging:
Dogs and cats don’t get wrinkles and sagging skin, but there are many signs that your beloved oldie needs some special attention.  These include:

Sore Or Damaged Teeth & Gums: This may show up as reduced interest in certain foods or ‘not eating’ their premium dry foods. 

Owners may think that he ‘doesn’t like the taste of them anymore’ and so fall into the trick of commercial wet foods - they don’t prefer the flavour of the wet foods - it’s just that they are soft and don’t hurt their teeth and gums!  Why not just soak his premium dry food in warm water and voila - wet (but good for you) food!

Painful Joints Or Arthritis:  This may show up as reluctance to go for long walks in dogs, not jumping up on the sofa or bed as often, not climbing the stairs or possibly not getting up to greet you in the morning after evening runs.

Basically the dog still wants to enjoy walks and playing with you but either gives up half way as it is too uncomfortable - or continues to chase ball after ball and walking for miles to be with you - but really suffering all night with the pain of it all.  Remember your aching limbs after that one-off mountain climbing session!

Lack of correct nutrients or organ failure: This may well start to show up as loose stools, poor coat or a change in character.  You may notice that your cat has started to soil closer to the house or not to cover it up.  Dogs may well lose weight or get dandruff or excessive molting.

Basically you could be feeding your dog the best food in the world, but if it isn’t scientifically designed for older animals or your pets internal digestive system or heart is not working properly these symptoms may be the first signs that you get to show that there could be something wrong.

Heart Disease:  This may show up as panting a lot, especially when hot.  Now I know that all dogs pant when they are very hot or after heavy exercise - but older dogs are more likely to suffer from some types of heart failure - and particularly certain breeds.

Many owners think that it is always best to take their dogs out with them wherever they go than to leave them at home, but that is not always so.  I would rather leave my dog at home on a sunny day than have her sit in a boiling hot car for the 30 minute journey to the park. 

Unless you have air-conditioning in your vehicle, it just gets too hot for elderly (or very young or hairy) animals to cool off.  Excess panting ensues because the heart cannot pump the blood around the body fast enough to cool it down.  The end result will only be making the heart worse, and we know where that leads!

Mental Boredom:  This may well show up a chewing their feet, over-grooming, destroying furniture or their beds and possibly soiling the house.

As you reduce their exercise due to age or injury they will need something to replace that stimulation - and it needs to be mental stimulation.  Rather than just throwing a ball around for less time or over shorter distances, you need to be stimulating their mind with tricks or new skills.

Why not invest in a Clicker (and a tiny torch for cats) and encourage them to learn a new skill that doesn’t involve too much strenuous activity. Maybe learning to turn in a circle or select a certain toy from the pile will keep them happy inside rather than let them waste away the rest of their lives.  Lack of mobility does not have to mean the end of their fun in life - or yours.

Treat them as you would elderly people.  Be patient, be encouraging and don’t expect them to do what they used to do.  Help them find new things to entertain and amuse them and keep your favorite pet happy!

posted by admin on May 17

How To Assess ‘What Is Wrong With My Dog?’

There are many illness that your dog can get, and many symptoms that can be signs of various diseases or injuries.

It is important to know whether the symptoms in you dog are 1) serious and need urgent veterinary attention, 2) are important and need checking by a vet, 3) are uncomfortable for your dog but can be treated at home or by simple remedies and 4) those that are common and need no treatment.

1) Serious - Urgent Attention.
This would include continued bleeding, sudden collapse or fitting, an obvious injury like bring hit by a car or anything regarding a pregnant bitch that is unusual.

A discharge from any body part could also be serious (although not clear discharge from the eyes and nose) especially if it is bloody, smelly or contains pus.  Always call your vet surgery if concerned.  Serious cases of violent or continued vomiting and diarrhea (with or without blood) may also be fitted into this group if very young, very old, or already ill and/or on medication.

2) Important - Need Checking.
This could include symptoms that have been going on for a while, but that were not immediately worrying.  These could include; loss of appetite, loose stools, vomiting, gradual weight loss, inactivity/sleeping more, behavioural changes (including aggression, soiling indoors, becoming unsociable) or stiffness.

You may be able to speak with a veterinary receptionist or veterinary nurse to help you decide on how to progress with these symptoms or whether to book an appointment sooner rather than later - it all depends on the age of the animal or other existing illnesses.

3) Uncomfortable - Your Choice.
Such things as worms (scratching their rear end or dragging their bottom along the ground) or fleas (chewing all their fur off up their back or scratching excessively) or other parasites can be either treated at home with standard products - however a visit to the vet can also check for other problems at the same time as administering treatment.

However, to be effectively treated at home, owners should still speak to a receptionist at their vet surgery for the most effective course of treatment and sometimes the more effective actual products.  By this I mean buying just a flea spray or collar for your pet will not get rid of fleas - you need to treat the whole house.  But if you only treat the pets bed and use a ‘flea’ product only (rather than one that kills the eggs and larva too) you will not solve the problem - and could make your own flesh the fleas next meal! See the previous ‘How To Get Rid Of Fleas In Your Home’ article for more advice.

4) Common Problems - Little Treatment.
Things such as loose stools after eating too much food - or the wrong type of food - such as stealing some cakes off the table!

Vomiting green slime after eating (or having the potential to have eaten) grass, or just vomiting up the last meal it ate - which they normally will eat again!

Hacking or coughing after eating a bone or twig - as long as the dog doesn’t look too uncomfortable and it doesn’t last more than an half hour or so is usually nothing to worry about.

Basically any symptoms that only last a short time and do not happen regularly should be no cause for concern.  As with humans, just keep an eye on things and go from there.

In Summary: 
As with any living creature, it is far better to get anything checked out if you are unsure, and for the sake a few $’s, it can be worth the peace of mind. 

I’m sure that your vet will not think you are wasting their time - after all, you are paying for a normal appointment just like everyone else there with you!  It also means that they get to answer any of your questions AND get to check your dog over thoroughly at the same time and update their health record, do a weight check and you can buy some food/wormers/flea products/accessories while you are there!

There are no losers after a visit to your vets!

posted by admin on May 7

The Feline Leukemia Virus is also known as FeLV and can infect any cat that hasn’t been vaccinated for this virus.

The virus is associated with lympho-sarcoma (lymph gland tumours) but can also affect the thymus, spleen and gut wall.  As the lymph glands are affected, this can lead to a form of immuno-suppression, making the animal prone to other infections.

Symptoms of Feline Leukemia:
An un-vaccinated cat will start to show symptoms of feline leukemia only after about 3 years!  It has a very long incubation period - although laboratory tests before this time can confirm the disease.

If your cat started showing symptoms they would probably include a high temperature initially, with noticeable lethargy (sleeping more than usual or not wanting to play and chase as normal).  It is possible that there would be a noticeable lack of appetite, although this could possibly be very difficult to spot when many cats are feeding from the same bowls.  

It is possible you will notice swollen lymph glands, but this would only be found with a proper check of the appropriate areas - they wouldn’t be felt with just regular stroking!

Persistent dental problems and gingivitis are common with this type of long-term infection.

If the virus remains active in the cats body, then the cat will be at risk of developing further disease.

Noticeable (clinical) signs of Feline Leukemia vary depending on where the Feline Leukemia virus is replicating - making more of itself - as this organ will be most affected and will probably develop a tumour.  The Feline Leukemia virus usually also involves the red blood cells in some way and can lead to related signs such as anaemia and immuno-suppression. 

If only found present late on in a cat, symptoms may well be secondary infections like bladder problems (cystitis) or other infectious diseases as the cat’s body can no longer defend itself from attack.

A positive diagnosis would need a blood or saliva test in a laboratory.

Is Feline Leukemia contagious?
Yes, and multi-cat households and breeding farms are most at risk.

A persistently infected cat can pass it on to all other cats in the household, and the only effective action is to permanently remove the infected cat from house. 

The virus is passed on through close intimate contact such as intercourse, saliva and blood.  So cat fights, same dish feeding and breeding can all spread the disease.

Feline Leukemia Treatment:
There is no cure for Feline Leukemia, and surviving Feline Leukemia is likely to be treatment that is symptom related, so removal of tumours, a course of anti-biotics for infections, etc.  The cats life will no doubt be shortened and possibly filled with illness.  It can sometimes shorten the cats life to just a few years after initial symptoms were spotted.

Sadly, the readily available vaccination would have prevented initial infection with the virus anyway, but not everyone vaccinates regularly, thinking it ‘won’t happen to them’.

In addition, make sure that any new cats entering your home or breeding cattery have been tested clear for FeLV and are vaccinated before putting your own cats at risk.

posted by admin on Mar 24

Can Roundworms Infect Any Animal ?  Basically, the answer is Yes.

These ascarids (a type of nematode worm) occur in all animal groups, including mammals, reptiles and birds and in each case the worm is host specific. They have managed to colonise every environment on earth by using the species that live there - but they do have their limits….

Host Specificity in Roundworm:
Roundworms are very specific in the animals they can reproduce in, but the worms themselves can get into other species and cause illness.  For example the dog roundworm (Toxacara canis) can cause lesions and blindness in humans.

However - host specificity means that they can only fully complete their life-cycle - from egg to larvae to adult - in one or sometimes two species. As mentioned, they are able to stay alive in other species in their larval stage, but can only become adult in their specific host.

Larval roundworms are commonly found in humans - although are inactive - but are still known as a zoonosis - which is a general terms used to describe a disease that can be spread from animals to humans, like rabies and salmonella.

How Do You Get Infected?
As with most endoparasites, animals or humans become infected by close contact with feces.  The eggs are ejected from the host in stools and are protected on the ground until ingested by another creature. 

Dogs and cats continue the cycle by sniffing each other waste for scent, or eating grass or food off the ground in an infected area (the eggs can survive long after the actual stool has gone).

Humans who pick up their animals waste inside or outdoors are at risk from picking up an egg - and needless to say if they do not thoroughly wash their hands before handling or eating uncooked food could ingest the eggs themselves.  The egg hatches to a larva and wil move around it’s new hosts body!

Unfortunately, people do not always treat their pets for worms and so children or adults sitting in parks, doing handstands or generally just playing about could come into contact with the eggs.  As will those who stoke, play or sleep with a pet that has laid on grass and the eggs may be transferred that way.

How To Avoid Getting Infected:
Don’t stop having fun outside or playing with your pets - just take obvious precautions.

Worm your pet regularly with a veterinary approved roundworm treatment following the dosage chart properly and on dates recommended.

Grooming your pet regularly and washing it’s bed/bedding can also reduce the numbers of eggs brought into your home by accident.

Always wash your hands before eating!  If you can remember to wash them after playing with pets or in parks or woodlands, but if you get in the habit of always washing before eating anyway - then you could avoid a lot worse things than roundworms!!
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posted by admin on Jul 9

How to get rid of fleas in your home.

It’s ok asking how to get rid of fleas in your home, as it is a common problem all pets owners have to deal with at some point of another.  However - everyone normally blames their pet and as a result there are many flea treatments available for flea control for just your pets.  But did you know that just treating your pet doesn’t always get rid of fleas in your home?

Fleas have been evolving for centuries to be the best parasite they can be, so you really need to know your stuff about them if you are going to outwit them at first attempt. You and your friends have probably tried new treatments for flea control from a pet shop, supermarket or your vets time and time again, but they just don’t seem to work, and have sometimes cost you a lot of money.

Therefore I am going to outline the 2 main types of flea control, and how effective they are, or why they appear to fail.

Pet-Only Flea Control Products:
These are flea treatments only for use on your pets, and include plain flea collars, electronic flea collars, flea sprays, flea pipettes, flea powder and shampoos, all designed to be used only on the pet itself - and specific to dogs OR cats. 

YOU CANNOT USE A DOG SPECIFIC PRODUCT ON A CAT.

Flea treatments for pets are very effective at killing fleas if they contain insecticides, as these will instantly kill any live fleas on your pet and you will sometimes see the results of these within minutes as you rinse or groom your pet after application.

The reason that some flea treatments for pets appear not to work after the initial treatment is that fleas actually live in your house, not on your pets at all.  The fleas only hop onto your pets to feed or breed.

Specialist flea companies quote something like for every adult flea you see there are another 100 in your home. Not surprisingly then, after you have freed your pet of however many fleas were on it at the time, as soon as it returns to your home, the next hungry lot jump straight back on!

But it lasts for 6 months… 
Don’t think that if the flea control products have a lasting effect - say 4 months protection - this will last to the end, as not all areas of the pet will remain protected for the whole time the flea collar or drops suggest. Dogs and cats get wet in the rain, washing chemicals off the felt-like collars very quickly. Humans touch the collars or groom their pets too soon, reducing it’s total insecticide content.

Either way, it’s bad news for you here, as even if the cat or dog is well protected, the fleas have still got to feed, so you may well become the next victim until you forget to continue the flea treatment on your pet, or don’t replace that flea collar as required, so the fleas can safely seek out the dog or cat again…..

So, why do they sell these products then?
Well, they are part of a whole flea control program, and are effective for just one small part if used alone. When used correctly with other flea control products for the home they will keep your pet and home clean of fleas.

Household-Only Flea Control Products:
These are usually large aerosol spray cans, flea powders or ‘bombs’ and are available as pet supplies but also in hardware stores and supermarkets, mainly for killing fleas in carpets and other furnishing.

The main problem with household flea control products is that they all do exactly what they say on the packaging (as the laws are very strict with chemicals), but we don’t always read the labels.  There are sprays that kill just adult fleas, and those that kill the larvae too, but there is only one type of aerosol spray that will actually rid your home of fleas properly - and it’s one that kills all 4 flea life-stages.

Basically, fleas are insects and have a life-cycle that includes the flea eggs, flea larvae, pupae and the actual adult flea, so you need a flea control treatment that does ALL 4 THINGS at the same time.

Inevitably these are more expensive than others, and for them to work you need to buy enough to do every single room in your home, including the shed, the garage, the loft, conservatories and porches, etc. They must be sprayed as directed in every room or place in your home or garden where people go (as fleas can be on you not just the pet). This might seem extreme, but if you treat everywhere except the shed and there are adult fleas in there, the next person in there will be dinner, and may well bring one back in your home to start laying eggs all over again, and you have wasted your time and money.

I know it sounds like overkill (excuse the pun), but you want them gone, right? So make sure you check you have enough of the right household flea control products for your type of property and use as directed.  Use the tips below to see where you went wrong last time:

Products that only kill the adult flea - no good - the flea eggs and flea larvae will still hatch at some point, re-infesting your home.
Products that only cover 1 or 2 rooms - no good - the fleas will still be living around the rest of your home, and will still breed there, biting you and your pets.
Products that last less than a year - no good - flea eggs can stay dormant in your carpet for over a year, so will be unaffected.

In Conclusion Then:
So, how to get rid of fleas in your home is actually simple, but there are so many treatments out there that you feel like you are going round in circles, trying one after the other.

Get the best advice from the products themselves, not other people. Read the labels yourself, and use as directed for the most effective flea control: well it’s your home after all.

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