Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Jan 30

If you are considering taking on some fire-bellied toads - then read on:

There amphibians are one of the easier amphibian species to take on for a first time keeper - but are still great fun for the more experienced; and are great to look at.

With their ‘plain’ back colouring, they look like a piece of swamp grass or soggy leaf - until they lift up their legs and leap away!  Their undersides are brightly coloured - showing bright red swirls and flashes!

Small in size, friendly in nature and able to live at room temperature - they hardly little leapers couldn’t be easier to cater for!

Basic Care:
They will live quite happily in a decent sized vivarium in a warm room with access to daylight or a light (not heat) emitting lamp.  I do have a heat wire running under their water - as they don’t like to take a dip in  the cold!

For my 4 toads, I have a 2ft by 1.5ft by 1ft vivarium, which is ample.  They have a submerged water tray in the centre with substrate and bark chips on top and around the water.  There are also some bromiliad-like plants buried in this substrate which they love to hide in.

There is also a large piece of cork floating half in and half out of the water for them to hide under and use to climb in and out of their warm pool - as well as several smaller bark chips floating on the surface for them to hold onto.

They absolutely love to just float in the water with 1 foot on the bark and then hide under the log in the daytime.  And 1 of mine just lives withing the leaves of the plant - only coming down to eat!

Feeding Time: 
Being quite small, they need to feed on a smaller prey species - and it has to be alive.  These toads will often reject food that isn’t moving and one of mine was sitting within millimeters of a tiny locust for 30 minutes before it twitched its leg and was gobbled up in a second!

They just love wax worms - and they are greedy little monsters too with one of mine eating 4 wax worms in a row!  I just didn’t think he has the space inside him as he was my smallest!

There is no sharing at the dinner table - so when I feed I have to put in more than necessary otherwise some might not get anything to eat at all! 

However, if they aren’t submerged in the water, under a log or in the plants - they will take these wax worms out of your hand if they are hungry - which is nearly all the time!  A great sight!

Toads Will Be Toads:
As will all toads, they do have toxic chemicals in their scent glands which appear like a small bow-tie on the back of their necks.  These glands on my toads help me to identify them as some are brown, some bright green and others barely visible.

Due to these glands, it is best to always wash your hands after handling your toads, and to keep the water very clean and these toxins wash off into the water and can make your toads poorly!  And don’t forget to treat the water first anyway with a suitable water conditioner

Now go grab your camera and take some great shots of their fire bellies! 

posted by admin on Nov 30

I work at a local dog shelter - and really wish more people would rehome the lovely Staffies we have here.

They are dogs with huge hearts, full of life and easy to train - but they have a stigma it would seem.  And that is where you come in.

By not being a ‘typical’ Staffordshire bull terrier owner - the fact that you have one (or 2) would go to making them not a cliche.  I mean if there are Staffies out there with pink collars and cow-print coats on, then they won’t look quite so ‘hard’ for their more typical owners and be trussed up in the largest black leather harness and 2-stone chain lead.

Staffies: The Breed:
Staffordshire bull terriers were originally bred as a dog to catch vermin - and some of the best ‘ratters’ of medieval Briton were bull terriers, however the breed was also used for fighting, bear-baiting and other such activities.

As a result of this type of breeding, the have a very muscular appearance and a great big head and mouth!  Needless to say that this translates into ‘looking mean’.

However, you should also be aware that Westies were bred to kill foxes (!) but we seem to think they are cute now!

Staffies are however, very reliable dogs and respond very well to training and absolutely love agility!  You won’t have a quite moment with one of these terriers in your home - but that’s what makes them fun.

There are 2 body types for the Staffies: the short-legged and the long-legged; as well as a whole range of colours from all white through tans, brindle, browns with white faces, chests and feet to all black.  So, something for everyone.

Staffies: The Problem:
Well, the problem is that due to the ’status symbol’ of the perfect Staffie - irresponsible people are breeding and breeding and breeding them until they get the right ‘look’ that they are after - and they are dumping all those along the way that don’t quite meet that look.

Regardless of age or sex - they are all ending up at rescue centres or are dumped - and needless to say; these people don’t have their pets micro-chipped either, so the problem becomes someone else’s.

Unfortunately, many rescue centres have the hope of rehoming as many homeless dogs as possible - so they cannot take more than 1 or 2 Staffies at a time - otherwise there would be no room for all the other breeds that have been abandoned!

As a result, many of the people who genuinely call rescue centres with a Staffie that they can no longer have (for financial or marital reasons) cannot find a reputable centre to care for it!  They have to resort to giving it to anyone who will take it after calling all the best centres and getting turned down - while those who don’t care for their pets just dump them regardless!

Staffies: The Solution:

Firstly - try not to see Staffies as a fighting dog - see them as a dag which has been used needlessly for a fashion statement.

By assuming that all Staffies are ‘bad’ you are making sure that these dogs remain homeless and also that the breed in general is persecuted wherever it goes.

Obviously - it goes without saying that you shouldn’t ever buy a Staffie puppy (or Staffie cross puppy either) as this will help not only to stem the breeding pattern - well if their owners don’t get money for their pups and have to feed them themselves they might have less litters - and then you still have a home ready for one of the abandoned dogs instead!

Love Staffies - Rehome Staffies!

posted by admin on Oct 26

Should You Buy Products Online - Or Through Your Vets?

You mights be saving some money by buying your wormers and flea products online - but could a visit to your vet spot a health problem in your pet that you wouldn’t have noticed otherwise?

Sometimes doing something from home saves you a lot of time - as long as you don’t have to be in for the postman - but does it really save you anything in the long run?

Your Vet:
We all know that a trip to the vets can cost a fair bit of money - but they do more for you than you might think.

When you pet has it’s annual check up or a booster, the vet will also be looking for signs of other illness or aging that you might think is just ‘normal’ as you only have that 1 dog and you see it every day, so can’t always spot changes.

It is possible that you vet could spot something that needs a closer look, or can identify some problems that can be easily rectified to make you pet healthy again.

If you have pet insurance anyway - then a trip to the vets shouldn’t be a worry!  Yes, you have to pay the first so much for the consult - but any problems they find will no could be claimed on your policy - so shouldn’t be a worry - and means that you can make sure your pet gets the best treatment without worrying about the cost!

And this means that you can spot things early and get them treated, rather than catching them when it’s too late and having to try much more aggressive or expensive treatments at the last minute!

Why They Cost More:
And don’t forget that the vets have overheads!  I mean - how will they see you for a vaccination appointment if they don’t have a surgery building? 

How will they treat your pet in an emergency if they haven’t got staff on site overnight or the latest equipment?

Just in the same way you need to pay a bit more in a local store than supermarket prices to keep your local store open - you really need to buy your pet products from your vets if you want to keep that open too?

It’s almost like a membership fee.  You pay that little bit more for basics to make sure that your vets has enough money in the kitty to keep trading.

And just in the same way that only the strong survive on the high street - only the vets that make enough money will be able to stay open and treating your pets.

So, if you value your vet surgery and want it to stay just around the corner and taking care of your pets every needs - then isn’t it worth that little bit extra on a packet of Drontal or Frontline?  They need you and you need them!

I mean what good is a local pharmacy or a giant Tesco going to do for you when your dog becomes ill or needs an x-ray?

posted by admin on Sep 29

If you want a really strange pet - but without the long-term commitment: get a triops!

These ‘alien’ looking creatures are something to amaze your friends with - and scare your mum with!

However strange they may look - especially the ghostly shed skins - their lifecycle is even more strange - and they were around with the dinosaurs! 

And with very little care and cleaning needed, these pets can be a great short term investment!  And fun too.

What Are They:
These little creatures are actually crustaceans - that crabs and lobsters to you and me - however they are much smaller.

They look a bit like miniature horseshoe crabs when fully grown, and have a long flexible tail with up to 71 pairs of appendages running the whole length of their body.

They are in constant motion using all these ‘legs’ to propel them through the water, and swim upside down to eat.  They also perform acrobatics all the time - twisting and turning through the water all day and night.

Due to the thinness of their carapace (outer coating) they appear to be bright blue, green and red as their internal organs and blood vessels show through.

They also shed their skin as they moult into full size and so you will often find a hollow triops floating in the water which you can fish out and investigate!

How Do You Care For Them?
Amazingly, you buy new triops as dry as a bone - mixed in with a sandy-like substrate.  This is because they live as eggs in river beds over the dry season and only hatch out when there is enough water to sustain them as adults.

To house them you get a small glass of plastic tank no larger than 1 litre in volume otherwise they won’t hatch out.  These small tanks are often supplied with your original purchase along with sand and food for later development.

You need to use bottled water to fill the tank - as tap water will kill them before they hatch.  Using bottled water means that you don’t have to buy water conditioning tablets like you have to for fish and reptiles.

They also don’t need the water to be heated either as room temperature is fine - however they do need the heat of a desk lamp or bright (but not direct) sun for most of the first few weeks of life otherwise they will not fully develop. 

As they are microscopic for this time, you won’t know how many you have until they moult large enough - so use the light to give them the best chance of developing.

Their Life Cycle:
They will hatch in your warm water within 30 hours - but of course you won’t know about it as they are too tiny - but you must leave the tank totally still and don’t add any ornaments to the tank either for at least the first week - or until you can see the baby triops.

You feed them the supplied food as described and water changes are also to be done in a certain way to make sure that they are not washed away or get ill from the dirty water: don’t forget that they are swimming in their own waste products!

They will rapidly grow to their full size of around 2 inches in a matter of weeks and then you can see the beauty of these living dinosaurs!  They only live for another month once adult - so make the most of them!

Depending on how many you get to adult - they will be sexually mature after just 3 weeks and could begin dropping their eggs into the sand on the base of the tank.  So if you allow this to dry out completely for a month after your adults have died, you can then start the whole process again by refilling your tank - hatching out your own babies!

And they are much much much better than sea monkeys!

posted by admin on Sep 21

There are actually 5 different types of hamster available as pets, although they are called all sorts of things!

You can divide these 5 types into 2 main groups: 1) Syrian Hamsters and 2) Dwarf Hamsters although there are as many differences between most of the smaller varieties as there are between them and the Syrians!

So, here is a quick heads-up on the different types available and their main traits as a pet - and if you want more detailed information, please look at the indepth articles using the Categories list.

Syrian Hamsters:
Sometimes called Golden Hamsters, Siberian or Teddy Bear Hamsters - these large hamsters come in a variety of colours and hair types ranging from a smooth-haired white to a long-haired black and everything inbetween!

They can have red or brown/black eyes with each colour and hair length as well, making them very interesting pets to choose from in the store.

Generally, they are large enough to hold in your one hand circling their body: head poking out 1 side and bum hanging out the other, although might be smaller and more wrigley as youngsters.

These hamsters only ever live alone as adults (which is from about 12 weeks old) and should only be kept together in the pet store as single sex groups from about 6 weeks - otherwise your single lady hamster could become about 6 overnight!

Syrian hamsters can be kept in any rodent cage, glass tank or plastic tube-connected maze (!) however, they can chew through plastic - so make sure the joins, edges and openings are hamster-proof!

Russian Hamster (Campbell’s Dwarf Hamster):
These are the most popular of the smaller hamsters and come in a variety of colours based on differing amounts of grey, agouti, cinniman and white, can have normal, satin, rex or wavy coats and can have either red, ruby or black eyes.  So there is quite some variety.

However, as with all the ‘dwarf’ hamsters, they are not the best pets for young children to handle as they are fast, jumpy and are very shy by nature.

The Campbells are more compact than Syrians, and need to be held in a cupped hand as they have a tendency to leap in the air when picked up (unless very well handled when young). 

They can live together in same sex pairs, or maybe larger groups in a big enough cage, but are prone to some serious squabbling as adults.  If severe or continued fighting occurs they may need to be permanently separated.

Due to their tiny size, they need to be housed in a cage with especially close together bars - and an extra bar over the opening clip area - otherwise they are likely to escape without much effort!  Ideally you should house them in a glass or plastic tank - as they can’t always climb up the tubes in the regular hamster cages!

Russian Hamsters (Winter Whites):
These hamsters are almost identical in appearance and size as the Campbells Hamsters, but are infact a separate species.  The Winter Whites change colour in nature - just as do Arctic Hares and Foxes!  They are the agouti colouring in spring and summer and can moult completely white in winter to match the snow in their homeland.  It doesn’t always happen in warmer climates with artificial lights and temperatures - which unfortunately allows pet stores to mis-sell them!

In fact they are so often confused by pet stores and casual owners that they don’t even think they are different - and so you will find them labelled as simply ‘Russian Hamsters’ or ‘Dwarf Hamsters’ rather than 1 or the other type. 

Of course, this isn’t so important if you just want them as pets as they will live together whatever they are - but if you are breeding them then it gets more serious.  By getting the breeds confused, you could end up with hybrid individuals and potentially pass on dangerous gene combinations between the species, causing mutations and long term illnesses. 

Chinese Hamsters:
These small hamsters are easier to handle than the Russians as they have a tendency to cling to hands when picked up regularly and are quite ‘mouse-like’.  They are also very similar in shape to the Syrians (only much much smaller) whereas the Russians are more stocky with no clear neck and waist!

These come only in the grey or agouti and white with black eyes and the ‘wild’ dorsal stripe down their backs.  At the moment they haven’t been as popular as the Syrian or Russian Hamsters, and so have not been as well bred for colour varieties.

As with Russians, they can live together when adults in single sex pairs or small groups as long as the cage and food supplies are well catered for.  And they also need the special cage requirements too:  if you use a cage where you can put your fingers through the bars - you may not have a hamster in the cage the following morning!

Roborovski Hamsters:
These tiny little hamsters have got to be the smallest of the 4 types - and look so cute!

As with the Chinese, they come in different varieties of the same colours: grey, agouti and white, so you could have a very dark individual and also an almost completely white individual - always with dark eyes.

These animals are best suited to a tank environment as they are so tiny that escape from cage bars is almost certain - and they can’t climb up tubes or ladders as their legs are just too short!  They love burrowing and running fast from place to place, so a lower 1 level cage is the best option for them.

posted by admin on Sep 7

If you are considering a few leaf insects as your next exotic pets - then this introduction is for you.

Many pet books overlook the humble leaf insect (or leaf bug), and many many others just shove them in the same ‘group’ as stick insects for ease.

But there is a lot more to leaf insects on their own - and here are a few of the basics about their character and their basic care.

Leaf Insects:
There are many different species of leaf insect ranging in nature from south and south-east Asia through to Australia - and they all look about the same - green and a bit leafy!

They are Phasmids (the same grouping as stick insects) but belong to the Phylliidae family and are very easy to keep as pets with very few specific requirements.

Depending on what age you get them at they could live for around 12 months (for females) or as little as 6 months (for males).  The nymphs are usually black on hatching and go through a series of moults as they increase in size and become more leaf coloured - ranging from pale yellows, through various greens to blotchy browns.

Female leaf insects are generally slow-moving individuals which tend to hang up-side-down from their food plants and stay there until they have eaten everything they can reach - then move on to another leaf!

The males can be a lot more speedy - as they are generally thinking about things other than food!  They are much thinner than the females and look a lot less ‘leafy’.  Adult males have long antennae and partially functioning wings to help them get about - more of a flutter than actual flight!  The adult females also have wings but cannot even flutter!

Leaf Insect Care:
Depending on the number of leaf insects you are getting and their lifestage; your tub, mesh cage or tank could be as simple as a tall cereal tub, or as elaborate as a huge wood-framed mesh display cage.

The only main care factors are for the very young leaf insects - where the humidity should be constant and the temperature not dropping below ‘jumper’ weather!  Don’t forget they come from the tropics!

These can both easily be achieved by using an airtight plastic container (like a large plastic cereal dispenser) and a flat heat pad during the colder weather.  The container needs to be airtight for 2 reasons: 1) to keep up the humidity by retaining all the moisture and 2) to make sure that the smaller nymphs don’t escape!  And needs to be humid to allow them to moult easily.

The reason for the height when housing younger leaf insects is also due to their moulting habits - where they hang off the bottom of a leaf and basically ‘drop out’ of their old skin.  If there isn’t enough height for them to completely come loose of their old skin, they will become trapped in it as they harden in their new skin - either losing limbs, becoming deformed or even result in their death.

Adult leaf insects don’t need too much humidity - but would still appreciate the warmth of a heat pad through the colder weather.  They also do better in taller housing as this allows you to put a ‘vase’ of their food-plant in the cage - keeping it fresher for longer!

Summary:
Here are the general requirements for leaf insects:

How Many: From 1 to 1000 (depending on cage size).
Housing: Small plastic tubs through mesh cages and even up to converted cupboards!
Cleaning: 1 or 2 times a week depending on numbers and plant material given. 
Life Span: Up to 1 year from hatching; maximum 6 months from Adult.
Food: Bramble leaves - but don’t collect from roadside locations!
Special Requirements: Heat pad for colder weather and high humidity for youngsters.
Other: Adult females can lay eggs without any males present - so watch out for any eggs on the bottom of the cage - as they will be fertile and can hatch in a few months (in specific conditions). 

posted by admin on Aug 10

Not many people think of cat breeds when they think of cats - to most people; Cats are just Cats!

So, what I have done is to put together a list of the 5 most popular cat breeds in the the UK today, and a little description of each one.  This way you can get an idea of what is out there.

1) The Persian:
This long-haired cat breed always wins hearts!  With it’s flowing coat that comes in a huge variety of colours and it’s gentle nature (if properly groomed!) can make almost everyone go ‘ahh!’.  They have a long history of being a show cat and love to be pampered and to just sit on a lap or cushion and be stroked!

2) The Siamese:
This breed is the noisy one of the bunch!  They love to be heard over everything else - and can be very persuasive pets!  Their very short coat makes for low maintenance in that department, but they are very active - and very long-lived so can keep you on you toes for over 16 years!  Modern breeding has made for a much more ‘pointy’ cat - but the older style is still very in demand.

3) The Maine Coon:
A highly desirable large cat - and ever so family friendly.  One of the oldest known cat breeds from the US - this breed is found all over the world even today.  It’s thick insulating coat is great for all weathers, and it’s relaxed attitude wins it many human friends!  Once thought to be a cross between domestic cats and raccoons (!), this large breed cannot be mistaken for a standard moggie!

4) The British ShortHair:
Recently overtaking the Persian in UK show registrations, this very soft and very colourful breed is really increasing in popularity.  With huge eyes and a thick cuddly appearance - they make the most adorable kittens!  The males are considerably larger than the females and develop the large ‘jowls’ on their faces as they mature.  The blue colouring was so widespread at one point that it gained it’s own name: the British Blue - still winning shows today! 

5) The Ragdoll:
This delightful breed of cat is one of the most relaxed.  Not wanting to chase birds and rodents al the time, or destroy furniture and curtains by climbing all over the place - these cats make great indoor pets.  They all have striking blue eyes - the brighter the better for showing - but all stem from one American breeder with a single male and 2 females!

There are plenty more cat breeds out there, but hopefully this gives you an idea of those breeds you are likely to see for sale near you.

posted by admin on Jul 5

People always love a Top 10 these days, so I put together this list of the dog breeds we love the most.

Obviously, everyone has their own favourite - and this list shows those most favoured by the nation.  And if you look closely - these are the one’s you are most likely to see walking in the park!

However, many people opt for a rescue dog, so don’t actually get the breed they like most - just the one that needed a loving home!  So, there are plenty of dog lovers out there with just any old crossbreed or mongrel that they love to pieces!

1) The Faithful Labrador Retriever - Golden, Black, then Chocolate!

2) The Energetic Border Collie - Loved for the agility and enthusiasm.

3) The Boisterous Jack Russell Terrier - In either long-legged or short-legged varieties.

4) The Elegant Yorkshire Terrier - A very handsome small dog, with a long history. 

5) The Reliable German Shepherd - Either Black & Tan, Sable, Black or White - Standard or Long-Haired too.

6) The Fluffy Bichon Frise - A perfectly shaped little dog - that the kids love to pamper!

7) The Chunky Rottweiler - A well-natured large dog breed that can be really affectionate.

8.) The Spotty Dalmation - An eager breed that loves training sessions and exciting walks!

9) The Dainty Cocker Spaniel - The perfect pooch for both families and couples, and comes in many colours.

10) And finally, the Shih Tzu - A short-legged breed that is very popular with the ladies!

Others breeds just outside of the Top 10 include the Golden Retriever, Labradoodle, Greyhound and of course, the Chihuahua!

There are also a lot of ‘new breeds’ cropping up all the time - but they are basically puffed up Cross-breeds and they may only be first or second generation anyway.  These were all sparked off by the original - the Labradoodle - whereby people were choosing the best quality from each breed and hoping the puppies took both: Like easy to train (Labrador) and not moulting (Poodle). 

We now have Cockerpoo’s (Cocker Spaniels and Poodles), Gointers (Golden Retrievers and Pointers) and even Puggles (Pugs and Beagles).  And it doesn’t end there!

posted by admin on Jun 4

It’s not a case of whether you lose your pet - it’s more about getting it back!

Many pet owners don’t seem to realise how terrible it is to lose a pet, and just because their little pet seems to always be at home or is rarely off the lead - they assume it can never get lost.

It can - and many many many pets every year get lost - and only a few ever make it back home.

The Problem:
Well, I have worked for animal rescue centres and veterinary surgeries and the number of times we get a phone call to say that someone has lost their black cat, or their pedigree dog.

Now, I don’t know if you know this but there are about a million black cats that all look - well, black.  And let’s be honest, there really isn’t much difference to the layman’s eye between 1 Yorkshire Terrier and the next - I mean they are bred to all look roughly the same, aren’t they?

And, obviously unless you call every vet, rescue centre, pet store or well being neighbour, you might not ever be matched up to your pet again.  Say for example your cat had been asleep in a car that drove off 20 miles before the cat jumped out - would you have called the vets that far from home?

What if your dog got lost while you were out in the local woods and ended up following another owner to the car.  They might not find you or want to leave your dog alone - so thinking they are helping might take your dog with them and report it to their own vet - which is completely on the other side of the woods to you! Or you are on holiday, miles from home?

And don’t think your pets collar will help either - many owners don’t put their full details on them anyway - and many tags - and collars - can (and do) fall off!

We know that animals get lost all the time whether you want to believe it or not - but what if there was a way to give you pet an unmistakable, unremovable id tag that will bring them home everytime?

That’s A MicroChip!
A tiny chip can easily and cheaply be implanted into your pet - from cat to rabbit, ferret to horse and dog to tortoise - and you need never worry about getting your pet returned to you when it is found.

They just need the one chip implanted and that is it for the animal!  There are no ongoing costs for the owner - but obviously you need to keep your contact details updated everytime they change so if they need to contact you, they have the best number!

Every veterinary surgery or rescue centre will ALWAYS scan a found animal looking for a microchip as this is the fastest and easiest way to find the owner.  So as long as your lost pet turns up in one of these places - you will be reunited.

They will also scan these animals if their owners are asking for it to be microchipped for them or when an abandoned animal arrives in a shelter.  This has lead to some amazing reunions!

A lost or seemingly abandoned animal may sometimes be adopted in by a new home, and when that new owner wants them ‘chipped or finally takes them to a rescue centre - your details will pop up as the rightful owner!

Also, if a pet is injured or killed on the road and taken to a veterinary surgery, it will also be scanned for a chip.

June 2010:
This month is national MicroChipping Week in the UK - so make sure you take advantage of surgeries and rescue centres offering reduced implantation - and plenty of them are!

I mean, it is to their advantage too. The sooner they can find out about any existing medical conditions an injured ‘lost’ pet has - the sooner they can offer the best treatment. And rescue centres don’t want to raise valuable donations looking after your dog for a week while you try to find it! They would rather it was home the same day, back with it’s owner rather than scared stiff in a noisy kennel!

Also, if your pets are already ‘chipped - take this as a gentle reminder to update your Chip Company with the correct contact details!

It will be the best thing you ever did for your pet!

posted by admin on May 25

This article details all you need to know as a beginner about a year in the life of a bat in the UK: 

Animal Type: Mammalia - Chiroptera

Species Info: There are 2 main Orders of bats in the world: Megachiroptera and Microchiroptera - but only the latter are found in the UK. 

UK Distribution:There are 17 species of Bat in the UK, with all these found in the South including the tiny Pipistrelle (only 5 grams) and the larger Daubenton’s and Noctule Bats, with only a few species found in the North.

Preferred Habitat: Around water (as this attracts their insect prey) and in quiet locations - although are quite happy to live in towns on canals or by lakes.  They need roosting sites nearby to where they feed - one for hibernating and another for summer roosting, so a variety of buildings, caves and holes in trees (or bat boxes) are essential.

In Spring:  Waking Up After Hibernation.
In early March, bats may still be hibernating but some will start to feed if necessary - however April is the month that you are most likely to start seeing many bats feeding at night in the UK.  By May there will be plenty of activity in the Bat world as the females are actively looking for communal nursery sites in which to have their young.

In Summer:  Giving Birth & Young Taking To The Skies.
The young are usually born in June (usually only 1 young per female per year).  These young stay in the nursery though most of July, building up strength until they start to leave the nest in August.  After the young have left, the females go off in search of males to mate with.

In Autumn:  Mating & Searching For A Hibernation Site.
The adult males and females spend most of September mating, as well as starting to build up fat reserves for the winter ahead by feasting on insects.  If the weather stays warm there could still be feeding into November, but when temperatures start to drop, the bats start to hibernate.

In Winter:  All UK Bats Are Hibernating.
You will rarely see a Bat through the cold winter as they will be be hibernating somewhere quiet and secure.  As the winter moves on they will stay in that place, gradually using up their fat reserves to stay alive.  Only when temperatures warm up nearing Spring will they naturally begin to stir and set out hunting again.

UK/World Events: 
May: UK National Moth & Bat Night
August: European Bat Weekend

Bat Groups:
UK - Bat Conservation Trust
US - Bat Conservation International
Other - South-East Asia Bat Conservation

Other Information:
Bats in the UK are protected by strict laws and you can be liable for a fine of up to £5000 and possible imprisonment per incident or ‘per bat’ if you deliberately capture, injure or kill a bat, destroy a roost - even if not in use, or intentionally block access to a bat roost.  So call an expert if in doubt!