Anything For Animals

posted by admin on May 1

There are many pets out there who have stiff joints, impaired movement or a mild limp - and many could be avoided.

With 6 main factors involved in the cause it can be easy to identify the main reason for the disability and discomfort.  And at least 3 (possibly 5) that are totally avoidable reasons - ways in which you can not only help your pet not to suffer, but to protect future generations.

I know this sounds a bit far reaching, but once you have read the information below and in Part II, you will no doubt agree.

1) Due To An Accident:
This is the most unavoidable of the reasons for bad joints - although it affect can be limited by your actions. By allowing an animal to get hit by a car for example with inadequate garden security, could seriously affect it’s joints in old age - even if the animal recovered well from the original incident.

And in the same light - by restricting over-enthusiastic activity of young animals - particularly in the larger dog breeds for example - you can limit the ‘accidents’ they are exposed to and so help make sure they grow up without a predisposition to problems.

2) Your Choice Of Breed:
One way to make sure that your pet doesn’t suffer from bad joints during it’s life, is to avoid selecting for breeds that a known or associated with joint problems, like German Shepherds.

Reading about breed specific problems is essential before selecting a specific breed anyway, but more so with reference to known medical traits. That way, if you still wish for that breed, you can make sure that your puppy or kitten’s parents have been checked for all associated hereditary diseases or conditions - therefore reducing the likelihood of your pet getting painful joints when older.

3) Unforeseen Circumstances:
However there are some conditions that are not present in the parents or grandparents and are just found in the individual and become noticeable in the first few months or years of it’s life. 

So you could always be unlucky enough to purchase one of these unfortunate individuals - all the more reason to always get pet insurance for the first year of your pets life (from the minute you pick it up) - this way you will find out if there is anything that is going to affect your pet long term - and then you can keep it covered and the insurance pay for it! 

4) Getting An Infection:
Another one that you might not be able to avoid, but that you can treat with differing degrees of attention - depending on the infection your pet has.

For example, if you are quick to spot a problem in your pet and get it seen by a vet as soon as possible, then a small infection might have no lasting effect on your pet.  However, if you let things drag on - or don’t apply all possible treatments due to cost or the time it takes, then it could spiral into something more long term. 

Now read Why Does Your Pets Have Bad Joints? - Part II, for the final 2 points to help your pet avoid bad joints.

posted by admin on Apr 26

There are dozens of veterinary surgeries in your area - but how do you choose the best one for your needs?

All vets have to be fully qualified to run a surgery, and all nurses have to be in training or fully qualified, but receptionist don’t have to have any training or qualifications at all - but then neither do ‘dog trainers’, ‘dog walkers’ or ‘dog sitters’.

So it is important to make sure that you are happy with everyone in the veterinary team.  But what else should you consider?

Price:
I put this first - although many would say that it was the least important.  If you have pet insurance, then cost of treatment is virtually irrelevant as all costs - bar your excess - will be covered by the insurance company.  So no need to worry about anything other than getting your pet the best available medications and treatments.

However, it is always worth knowing the cost of the basic routine things as these may be too low for the insurance to cover - or not covered at all, like vaccinations, neutering, nail clipping, tail docking and wormers etc.

Location:
Proximity to your vet is very helpful in case of emergencies or if you just want to nip to the vets in your lunch break for a routine appointment - but you need to think about what that surgery can offer.

For example, not all surgeries offer overnight care or specialist care, and some don’t invest in larger machinery - so if you take you injured puppy to your nearest vet, they may then need to send you to a more distant vets to get the work done - and this may be a different company too.  Therefore, if might be wise to register with a vets that has everything onsite in the first place.

24-hour treatment isn’t offered by all surgeries either - they sometimes share with other vets.  So you could call your normal surgery (5 min drive) at 2 am and they recommend their emergency surgery which happens to be a 45 minute drive away - when if you had checked a vets that is 10 minutes from your house may have their own 24 hour emergency vet!   

Your Pet:
The above 2 examples are more likely to affect you if you have a dog or a cat, but if you have an exotic pet like a skunk, snake, parrot or tortoise, then you may be best to find a vet that specialises in that species rather than take you chances with a ‘normal vet’.

Although a ‘normal’ vet is qualified to medicate and treat all animals, they may not have the continued training in exotics that a specialist has, so might not be able to offer the best solution to your problem - no matter how close they are to your house!

And, they may not have the equipment necessary to deal with it anyway - for example - a boa constrictor wouldn’t last too long in a dog pen, and I know for a fact that most vets do not keep glass tanks and humidistats in their back rooms!

Same goes for horses and goats - I can’t imagine you can just walk into your local surgery with one of those!

posted by admin on Apr 15

This new Act was introduced to make sure that all pets in England and Wales had a basic standard of care.

Whether you are the owner or the keeper of a pet, whether it is large or small or indoors or outside; you are responsible for adhering to the ‘rules’ of this Act, and violation of them could result in the confiscation of your pets and possible criminal prosecution (up to 51 weeks in prison and up to a £20,000 fine).

The guidelines are very easy to understand (and many would say; obvious), and so abiding by them should be easy for any animal lover.

As a pet owner or keeper, you have a legal duty to ensure the welfare of the animals in your care, and you must ensure that the following ‘needs’ are considered at all times:

A Suitable Environment:
This means that it needs to be suitable for that particular animal; for example a horse and a gerbil will have very different ’suitable’ environments!

A Suitable Diet:
This means that it needs to be a suitable diet for that particular animals; for example a dog and a canary would need very different ’suitable’ diets.

Suitable Housing:
This means that they need housing that is suitable for each particular animal.  This is on 2 levels; firstly it must be suitable for each particular animal in the sense that a cat and a tarantula cannot both be kept in the same size cage; and secondly on a compatability level, that a cat and a tarantula should never be kept in the same cage, whatever it’s size! 

To Exhibit Normal Behaviour:
This means that the housing you keep it in and the food you feed it allows the animal to grow and develop normally for it’s breed or species without deformity.  It also means that the animal can move about with ease and isn’t mentally stressed or seen to be suffering in any way. 

Be Protected from Pain and Suffering, Injury and Disease:
This means that the animals must not be kept in conditions that will affect their growth, completely restrict their movement or in a dangerous or hazardous environments.  It also means that if they do become injured, sick or diseased that they will need to be seen by a qualified vet and medical treatment and pain relief (if necessary) sought.

If you are in any doubt about to how to properly care for your pet, ask your local vet or pet store, or contact an animal charity like Dogs Trust or PDSA for advice.

posted by admin on Sep 16

So, you have all the essentials worked out for your new little kittens - but there are still several things that are virtually essential although they don’t contribute to just keeping your kitten healthy - they keep them happy and safe.

Toys - Yes, you can drag old shoelaces along the floor, or you can roll a screwed up piece of paper across the floor - but nothing beats a few specially designed kitten toys to entertain your ball of fluff.

Catnip filled toys are almost an easy answer - as the kitten will just play by itself for hours with these, same goes for a ping pong ball that bounces of everything and gets moved by the wind or passing feet!

Gloves with toys dangling on the fingers makes for a toy to use while you are watching TV and a fishing-rod type toy is perfect for those folks who want to play but can’t bend all the way to the floor!

Scratching Post - Not everyone thinks that these are worth getting - but I always say that a kitten needs to grab with it’s claws and if you don’t supply it with something to use - then it will find something else: your couch, table leg, bed post, staircase, etc - they will use them all.

You don’t need to get a 4 storey one with a bed and rope ladder, but at least get a simple post of around .5 of a meter so that they can stretch right up. And it’s tall enough to wedge infront of whatever it is that they were scratching instead as a diversion!

Collar & Tag - Some people don’t want their kitten (or cat) to wear a collar everyday.

There are stories of them getting snagged or caught (which they do) and there are pussy cats that shed their collars almost every week (which there are), and you can identify your kittens with micro-chips anyway (which you can) - so why make your kitten wear one?

There are so many cats in built up areas these days that it is almost certain that you will come home one day to find someone else cat in your house eating your food of spraying up your counters! And the only way to stop this is to either close all your doors and windows and board-up the cat flap - or get a magnetic cat flap.

Which means your cat needs to wear a collar to put the magnet on.

Therefore, if you have got your kitten used to wearing a collar when it is younger, it won’t mind wearing one when it is older - saving you the effort of training your grumpy older cat to stop pulling his off with the expensive magnet on it!!!

Some people also like their cat to wear a bell on it’s collar to prevent them catching birds and bringing frogs home (which they will)! You’ll find them in your house!

Cat Carrier - You can make do with a large cardboard box when you first collect your kittens, but it is in no way suitable for continued use. For a start you can’t wash it!

Ideally, once you have found your kittens for sale and have agreed a collection date, you should head out to a pet store and buy a plastic cat carrier.

Ideally avoid the wire-cage style as if can be very worrying for your kitten to be so exposed - particularly at the vets where they are on the floor surrounded by legs, people, telephones and (worst of all) loads of dogs!

The more suitable plastic ones have closed in but vented sides and just the one open end for entry. The whole top unclips so they are ideal for storage as well, and with the door detached, they can be used for a cosy kitten bed allowing your felines to get used to using it rather than having an almighty struggle when you need to go to the vets!

Kitten Food - Although this is essential for your kitten - and it will be discussed in detail in a later article - you should really continue to feed you lovely kittens on the food that they are already eating. For at least 4-6 weeks really.

That way they won’t get an upset tummy when they move to your house. They will already be a bit nervous of leaving their mom and starting out in a new home - so the last thing they need is to be fed a totally different food as well.

You should decide what premium kitten food you want to move your kittens over to and have that already in stock after collecting your kittens. Make sure that you have read up all about weaning them over onto it so it all goes smoothly.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Using the list from the introduction, here is a summary of what you need and why you need it. They are covered in 2 groups: Absolute Essentials and Useful Additions.

Absolute Essentials: Your kittens cannot do without the following items (even if they are second-hand). And there are a few tips for each to make sure everything runs smoothly for your new addition!

Water Bowls - It is essential that your kittens have at least one water bowl with clean fresh water in it at all times. Many felines prefer bathroom water or rain water to kitchen tap water as it contains less chemicals - so maybe try different options to see what the cuties prefer.

Also a combined food and water dish is not the best option as the food can fall into the water while eating and then the kittens won’t drink it. And all the while you are washing the food dish - which with wet food can be several times a day - there is no water bowl anyway!

Food Bowls - Each kitten should have their own food bowl - and it only needs to be a small one. Avoid buying dual feeding dishes as many felines prefer not to eat face to face with another feline - it’s like us eating off the same plate as our sisters!

Dishes that are too deep are no god either as they can affect the amount and frequency your kitten eats - imagine having to scoop your dinner out the bottom of a big barrel at meal times! And kittens need to eat a lot of food spread over the day, so it is essential to get the bowls right otherwise they won’t gain weight at the correct rate.

Bed or Blanket - Many kittens won’t always sleep in a bed just because you brought it for them. They like to sleep in a high location out of the way - and preferably somewhere warm and cosy.

So if you decide that you want the cat to sleep in the hallway on the floor and stick a bed there - if it’s too busy, too cold, too low or too near the dog (!) - the cat probably won’t use it. It will just sleep wherever it wants to. And this is where the blankets come in.

You can lay a blanket over the back of the couch, on a window ledge, book shelf, airing cupboard or your bed and it keeps off the hairs!

Litter Tray - As the little kittens will be too tiny to go outside for the first few weeks (and it isn’t advised until after their vaccinations anyway) - they will need a place to go to the toilet in your house somewhere.

It needs to be in a quiet location ideally and away from their normal eating place.

Depending on your needs there are many different shapes and sizes of litter tray available, some are small trays, others and protected tray and others are fully hooded contraptions (which might frighten smaller kittens). It all depends on how clean and scent-free you need the tray to be.

There are different types of cat litter available as well, but your kittens will soon tell you whether they like it or not! It’s best to start with a wood-based or paper-based litter for ease and for absorption, but some older cats prefer the heavier clay variety - so it depends if they have to share!

Even if they intend to be an outdoor cat it’s always good to have trained them to use a litter tray when they are young incase they are ever house-bound due to illness or house-moving and need to stay indoors. Some older cats just won’t be trained!

Other additional accessories for litter trays can include filters, odor eaters, fresheners and litter bags as well as scoops and exit mats! All designed for human comfort. They mean that not only do the owners not have to smell a fresh stool - but they can put the litter tray in places where it otherwise wouldn’t be suitable.

For example, the hooded litter tray with odor eaters and litter bags could be left in the kitchen as an alternative to an open shallow tray with a fresh doodle sitting in it! And when ready to change, just lift the bag out and throw away - no spillage anywhere.

Also, the exit mats and high sided litter tray would mean that litter wasn’t tracked or kicked all over the carpet after each visit!

See you next week to complete your Perfect Kitten Essential Kitten Kit!

posted by admin on Sep 4

So, you have decided to get yourself one or two cute kittens at last!

Great choice - so now you need to start getting everything ready for the big day when you collect your little kittens and bring them home.

Whether it’s a flame point Himalayan kitten you want or just a ginger tabby, they all need the same basic care when they are young - and their first 12 months could influence the rest of their lives - and yours!!

Planning:
There is nothing worse than getting the kittens first and then having to rush around buying whatever you think you need there and then.

Not only will the kittens become stressed at your rushing around with them, or at being left at home alone while you drive around the stores - but you may end up buying the wrong things simply because they are the only things you can find in time!

Not a very good start to your lives together.

So it makes sense to plan ahead and get the essentials ready in advance. And here’s the basic list for starters:

Water Bowls
Food Bowls
Bed or Blanket
Litter Tray & Cat Litter
Scratching Post
Selection of Toys
Safe Cat Carrier
Collar & Tag
Kitten Food

Obviously there are many things to consider with all of these items depending on your requirements, the number of other pets and children in the house and the requirements and choices of your kitten over the first few months.

And this series in the Perfect Kitten Guide starts with Part 1 of your Essential Starter Kitten Kit starting next week.

posted by admin on May 7

The Feline Leukemia Virus is also known as FeLV and can infect any cat that hasn’t been vaccinated for this virus.

The virus is associated with lympho-sarcoma (lymph gland tumours) but can also affect the thymus, spleen and gut wall.  As the lymph glands are affected, this can lead to a form of immuno-suppression, making the animal prone to other infections.

Symptoms of Feline Leukemia:
An un-vaccinated cat will start to show symptoms of feline leukemia only after about 3 years!  It has a very long incubation period - although laboratory tests before this time can confirm the disease.

If your cat started showing symptoms they would probably include a high temperature initially, with noticeable lethargy (sleeping more than usual or not wanting to play and chase as normal).  It is possible that there would be a noticeable lack of appetite, although this could possibly be very difficult to spot when many cats are feeding from the same bowls.  

It is possible you will notice swollen lymph glands, but this would only be found with a proper check of the appropriate areas - they wouldn’t be felt with just regular stroking!

Persistent dental problems and gingivitis are common with this type of long-term infection.

If the virus remains active in the cats body, then the cat will be at risk of developing further disease.

Noticeable (clinical) signs of Feline Leukemia vary depending on where the Feline Leukemia virus is replicating - making more of itself - as this organ will be most affected and will probably develop a tumour.  The Feline Leukemia virus usually also involves the red blood cells in some way and can lead to related signs such as anaemia and immuno-suppression. 

If only found present late on in a cat, symptoms may well be secondary infections like bladder problems (cystitis) or other infectious diseases as the cat’s body can no longer defend itself from attack.

A positive diagnosis would need a blood or saliva test in a laboratory.

Is Feline Leukemia contagious?
Yes, and multi-cat households and breeding farms are most at risk.

A persistently infected cat can pass it on to all other cats in the household, and the only effective action is to permanently remove the infected cat from house. 

The virus is passed on through close intimate contact such as intercourse, saliva and blood.  So cat fights, same dish feeding and breeding can all spread the disease.

Feline Leukemia Treatment:
There is no cure for Feline Leukemia, and surviving Feline Leukemia is likely to be treatment that is symptom related, so removal of tumours, a course of anti-biotics for infections, etc.  The cats life will no doubt be shortened and possibly filled with illness.  It can sometimes shorten the cats life to just a few years after initial symptoms were spotted.

Sadly, the readily available vaccination would have prevented initial infection with the virus anyway, but not everyone vaccinates regularly, thinking it ‘won’t happen to them’.

In addition, make sure that any new cats entering your home or breeding cattery have been tested clear for FeLV and are vaccinated before putting your own cats at risk.

posted by admin on Apr 25

If you are after the greatest pet show - that includes all sorts - not just dogs - then head for the NEC in Birmingham on the 4th, 5th or 6th and May 2009.

The Ultimate Pet Show will include horse stunts, duck herding and ferret racing as well as rabbit show-jumping, spider handling and pet fashion show on the Sunday!  It really has it all.

What Else?
Well, there are many hands-on sections for every type of pet as well as medical advice from the experts.  Seminars, demonstrations and competitions, as well as fun activities and displays including birds of prey.

Also the chance to buy products from all the big names in the stands, free samples and money-off coupons, with names like James Wellbeloved, Pet Plan and The Dogs Trust.

There is also the chance to see the winner announced on the Saturday for ‘Britains Most Talented Pet’ as the finalists all arrive for the judges - which includes TV vet Mark Abraham.

The online price is just £12 - and kids under 5 are free - so you can bring the kids along too - no excuses!

See you there?

posted by admin on Jun 21

Can my kitten get distemper?

Kittens (and cats) do not get distemper - only dogs and mammals related to dogs such as foxes and racoons can become infected with distemper and spread it to other dogs or dog-related mammals.

So there’s no need to worry about how often does a kitten get a distemper shot or symptoms of distemper in kittens, as there is no such shot - kittens don’t get distemper, and distemper in cats is unheard of!

So, go worry about something else….