Anything For Animals

posted by admin on Aug 20

Back again with some more easy to achieve tips for getting ready for your horse shows.  And this collection are all about your horses appearance - and planning ahead for the show.

You may well already use some of these - or you could add yours to the comments below to help others.  Either way, here they are:

1) Create your own great quarter-marks with a snapped up set of teethed combs. Practice with both fine and wide toothed combs to find the best effect and then design your patterns in advance!

2) To hold your quarter-marks in place for longer - use a little hairspray - as long as it doesn’t spook your horse!

3) To make a white tail look really white - try washing it in a tiny amount of biological soap powder - but be careful not to get it on your horses skin!

4) When trying out new styles of plaiting, quarter-marks or your own clothes, make sure you take pictures from both close up and farther away (like the judges will see). This way you can find out in advance which looks better for the show.

5) Plan to space you plaits evenly by using a plastic comb or other small item as a measuring stick. Planning it’s length in advance will let you know how many plaits you will need for the complete look.

6) When plaiting up before the show - make sure you have threaded up all the needles you think you will use and stick them in the front of your jumper - rather than using the 1 needle and wasting a lot of time inbetween each plait!

7) Also, the types of plait you use can help improve the appearance of your horse. For example lots of smaller plaits can make a short neck look better proportioned, and larger raised plaits can make a thin or long neck a bit more chunky looking!

8.) To keep plaits in place during a show - why not use a setting lotion instead of water while plaiting.  This should stop wispy bits from coming loose during the day.

9) If cutting your horses tail for the show, get someone to put their arm under his tail to raise it slightly to the height he carries it when moving - otherwise you may cut it too short!

10) And if not cutting the tail then plait your horses tail tip when still wet and leave to dry. When ready, brush out the plait with your fingers with the result that the tail tip will look wavy and fuller in time for the ring!

Fantastic Stuff! Your horse should look beautiful by now!

posted by admin on Jul 30

This article lists some great tips for making a trip to a show easier and hopefully better than before!

By finding the little things that work better, faster or more cheaply can really make the difference to a day at a show - allowing you time to think about the more important things - like winning!!!!

So, lets get started with some quick and easy top tips:

1) The day before the show - wash your horse: not the day of the show.  This way it allows the coat to settle back down and it will be more ‘controllable’ when you are getting him ready in the morning! 

2) And a mane will be virtually impossible to plait when it has just been washed!

3) For yourself - use only a discreet rosebud and small flower head for your show classes - otherwise it will be a distraction for the judges - and could fall out in the ring if too large!

4) And choose dark gloves for dressage and show classes as they attract less attention than white ones - although white gloves may seem the right choice, you want the judges to be watching your horse - not your hands!

5) Keep some thick sticky tape to hand to get fluff and hay off of your clothes before you enter the ring. Roll a full look around your hand - sticky side out - and pat or roll on the offending bits of fluff! Repeat as necessary when all the ’sticky has gone!

6)Keep a list of all important friends and supplier phone numbers with your show equipment, just incase you need something short notice - like a new jacket, hat silk or to borrow a trailer. You can’t waste time looking for a number when you are in the ring in less than an hour!

7) To produce a good shine on your rubber boots - use a little spray from some spray-can furniture polish!

8.)And for your horse: use boot polish instead of hoof oil if showing in an indoor arena - as the shavings wil not stick to the polish!

9) Use a thread the same colour as your jacket when attaching your show number so it looks more natural from a distance.

10) And if you are allowed: trim off the corners of you number at the show as this will make the number look smaller and much neater - it will also help to prevent the number from curling up and looking tatty in the ring!

Hope these helped!

posted by admin on Jul 7

Why should your car be just a boring run-around filled with dog hair?

I always thought that a car and a dog would equal: a hairy back seat - but in the past 10 years or so, cars and dogs are becoming more and more civilised!

Not only is there now doggy car etiquette to consider - there is a whole range of car accessories now available to make your hound safer, but more importantly there are ways to keep your car looking as good as new inside and out!

Inside The Car:
Firstly, there is a whole new emphasis on dog safety inside the car.  Not only are there now doggy seatbelts, car seat covers and booster seats - you can now buy a custom-made car crate to fit your exact car specifications, boot space and doggy needs!

Whether it’s a hatchback or an estate - there will be the specific sized and shaped crate to fit in your car - rather than having to sit an unsightly and slightly awkward standard dog crate on the back seat!  Perfect for you and your pets!

There are also a huge variety of seat covers, floor mats and cargo sheets to make sure that all the dog hairs stay off the seat fabric!  And of course, all the mud and grass from a great walk stay off too!

You can take your dirty wellies off before getting inside - but the dogs have no choice, so make it easy for them.

Outside The Car:
Getting your dog in and out of the car has never been easier, with new shape boots and sliding doors.  Plus the fact that you can now buy some amazing collapsible and sturdy ramps for those heavier dogs or those too old or ill to just ‘hop in’ as before.

And as your car probably takes a bit more external attention what with dogs running around it, rubbing against it - and not to mention humans leaning on it to get wellies on and off - why not make it easier to clean with chrome accessories all around - front back and sides!  Plastics can get scratched and bitten (!) depending on your hounds - so avoid it with a sturdy and stylish outside!

And talking of ‘hot’ - make sure that you keep your car cool in the summer when driving the dogs around!  Whether that means parking in the shade, carrying around umbrellas and sun shades or buying trendy sun shades for the inside windows. Dogs get really hot really quickly in cars - so be prepared for overheating pets!

And don’t forget the car either - keep water and oil on hand and make sure that you look after your car as much as your dogs!

You are now ready to give someone a lift in your car WITHOUT apologising for the mess! 

posted by admin on Jun 20

Why not take on board some of these tips for some great time saving ideas - more time left for riding!

Some of them are so obvious that you might not have even thought of them as time-saving - but add up all those minutes spent looking for something, fixing something that’s broken or shopping for something you could have made yourself!

So, lets get started:

1) Let’s start with an easy one - tie some bright material or a pink shoelace to your hoof pick to make it easy to find if you drop it in your bedding or if you can’t see it in the boot of your car!

2) Adding to this - why not make sure that whenever you are buying some new equipment - lead ropes, brushes or hat silks - buy them as bright as you can so you can save time looking for them all the time!

3) Save more time around the yard by using baler twine to hang scissors next to your hay supply, or any other piece of equipment you always seem to need when haven’t got it to hand!

4) Stop struggling to use that last tiny bit of saddle soap in your tin - save up all your left-over bits in one tin - then when you have enough leave the tin in your baking hot car until it all melts into one lump, and use it like new!

5) Always choose dark coloured jodhpurs to wear around the yard to save on washing time.  If you wear pale colours, you will no doubt end up washing them after every wash!  What a waste of water too!

6) If your whip seems to slide out of your hand when riding - why not fix a rubber martingale to the handle where appropriate and keep it in place!

7) Clean your grooming kit at the same time as washing your horse - which basically keeps you horse cleaner for longer.  Why would you want to brush old hair back onto your clean pony?

8.) Get yourself a boot-jack.  The time wasted getting a friend to pull of your long boots may be fun once or twice - but when you need to get home or back to work, it;s just annoying. 

9) Keep some rubber gloves with you at the yard - as mucking out that one dropping by hands is much quicker than finding the shovel and wheelbarrow!

10) And during that quick clean up - you don’t want your horse to keep trying to get out as you struggle to open and close the stable door every-time - why not fix a simple breast bar across the door, allowing you to scuttle in and out in a second while keeping your horse in place!

Well,  What do you think of those?  Have you got any yourself?  If so, let us know right here.

For some more great tips - try Money Saving Top Tips or Top Tips For Your Horses Health & Wellbeing.

posted by admin on Jun 4

It’s not a case of whether you lose your pet - it’s more about getting it back!

Many pet owners don’t seem to realise how terrible it is to lose a pet, and just because their little pet seems to always be at home or is rarely off the lead - they assume it can never get lost.

It can - and many many many pets every year get lost - and only a few ever make it back home.

The Problem:
Well, I have worked for animal rescue centres and veterinary surgeries and the number of times we get a phone call to say that someone has lost their black cat, or their pedigree dog.

Now, I don’t know if you know this but there are about a million black cats that all look - well, black.  And let’s be honest, there really isn’t much difference to the layman’s eye between 1 Yorkshire Terrier and the next - I mean they are bred to all look roughly the same, aren’t they?

And, obviously unless you call every vet, rescue centre, pet store or well being neighbour, you might not ever be matched up to your pet again.  Say for example your cat had been asleep in a car that drove off 20 miles before the cat jumped out - would you have called the vets that far from home?

What if your dog got lost while you were out in the local woods and ended up following another owner to the car.  They might not find you or want to leave your dog alone - so thinking they are helping might take your dog with them and report it to their own vet - which is completely on the other side of the woods to you! Or you are on holiday, miles from home?

And don’t think your pets collar will help either - many owners don’t put their full details on them anyway - and many tags - and collars - can (and do) fall off!

We know that animals get lost all the time whether you want to believe it or not - but what if there was a way to give you pet an unmistakable, unremovable id tag that will bring them home everytime?

That’s A MicroChip!
A tiny chip can easily and cheaply be implanted into your pet - from cat to rabbit, ferret to horse and dog to tortoise - and you need never worry about getting your pet returned to you when it is found.

They just need the one chip implanted and that is it for the animal!  There are no ongoing costs for the owner - but obviously you need to keep your contact details updated everytime they change so if they need to contact you, they have the best number!

Every veterinary surgery or rescue centre will ALWAYS scan a found animal looking for a microchip as this is the fastest and easiest way to find the owner.  So as long as your lost pet turns up in one of these places - you will be reunited.

They will also scan these animals if their owners are asking for it to be microchipped for them or when an abandoned animal arrives in a shelter.  This has lead to some amazing reunions!

A lost or seemingly abandoned animal may sometimes be adopted in by a new home, and when that new owner wants them ‘chipped or finally takes them to a rescue centre - your details will pop up as the rightful owner!

Also, if a pet is injured or killed on the road and taken to a veterinary surgery, it will also be scanned for a chip.

June 2010:
This month is national MicroChipping Week in the UK - so make sure you take advantage of surgeries and rescue centres offering reduced implantation - and plenty of them are!

I mean, it is to their advantage too. The sooner they can find out about any existing medical conditions an injured ‘lost’ pet has - the sooner they can offer the best treatment. And rescue centres don’t want to raise valuable donations looking after your dog for a week while you try to find it! They would rather it was home the same day, back with it’s owner rather than scared stiff in a noisy kennel!

Also, if your pets are already ‘chipped - take this as a gentle reminder to update your Chip Company with the correct contact details!

It will be the best thing you ever did for your pet!

posted by admin on May 10

Horses and Ponies are just as much part of the family as dogs and cats - so lets focus on them in this article.

I have put together 10 great tips for saving your horse or pony from discomfort or boredom, and made them into a nice easy-to-read little list:

1) Safety First - Tie a small knot in the end of your lead rope to prevent it slipping clean out of your hand if he is startled or puts the breaks on!  This way he can’t get loose in an unsuitable environment.

2) And if he does injure himself, use salty water for his wounds - a really effective and cheap antiseptic.  Disinfectants shouldn’t really be used as they slow the healing process.

3) And talking cheap - use vinegar as a fly repellent.  It is just as effective as store-brought preparations, and is completely natural when washed off in the rain (and onto the grass your horses eat!).

4) Stop your horses from refusing to eat worming tablets or creams by storing them in the fridge overnight - they lose their smell when chilled - so he might no notice them in his breakfast!

5) Reduce the amount of foot-scraping your horse does at the stable door by putting a rubber mat there.  This way he won’t wear his hooves out on the rough ground - and if it no longer makes a noise, he may stop doing it so often!

6) In really cold weather, remember to leave a decent sized plastic or rubber ball in the water trough to prevent if from freezing completely over so your horses can still drink through the night!

7) And in really warm weather, flies and midges are more attracted to sweaty or dirty horses, so make sure you rub him down regularly and/or wash often with a shampoo that contains a mild antiseptic to help deter bugs!

8.) Staying on the bug theme - when applying louse powder, make sure you start at the fetlock, and really work the powder into the hair roots all the way down the creast, along the spine and right to the roots of the tail.  There’s no point doing it unless you are going to do it properly the first time!

9) If you want to save yourself some trouble when shaving your horse’s whiskers - use a plastic safety razor instead of scissors - this way you can be a bit braver when making contact with his moving head!

10) And an obvious one to finish - but one that people seem to forget sometimes: Never tie your horse to a fixed object!  Always tie to a piece of breakable baler twine to prevent him from injuring himself if startled.

Go to 10 Top Time Saving Tips For Your Horses Maintenance  for more ideas.

posted by admin on Sep 16

So, you have all the essentials worked out for your new little kittens - but there are still several things that are virtually essential although they don’t contribute to just keeping your kitten healthy - they keep them happy and safe.

Toys - Yes, you can drag old shoelaces along the floor, or you can roll a screwed up piece of paper across the floor - but nothing beats a few specially designed kitten toys to entertain your ball of fluff.

Catnip filled toys are almost an easy answer - as the kitten will just play by itself for hours with these, same goes for a ping pong ball that bounces of everything and gets moved by the wind or passing feet!

Gloves with toys dangling on the fingers makes for a toy to use while you are watching TV and a fishing-rod type toy is perfect for those folks who want to play but can’t bend all the way to the floor!

Scratching Post - Not everyone thinks that these are worth getting - but I always say that a kitten needs to grab with it’s claws and if you don’t supply it with something to use - then it will find something else: your couch, table leg, bed post, staircase, etc - they will use them all.

You don’t need to get a 4 storey one with a bed and rope ladder, but at least get a simple post of around .5 of a meter so that they can stretch right up. And it’s tall enough to wedge infront of whatever it is that they were scratching instead as a diversion!

Collar & Tag - Some people don’t want their kitten (or cat) to wear a collar everyday.

There are stories of them getting snagged or caught (which they do) and there are pussy cats that shed their collars almost every week (which there are), and you can identify your kittens with micro-chips anyway (which you can) - so why make your kitten wear one?

There are so many cats in built up areas these days that it is almost certain that you will come home one day to find someone else cat in your house eating your food of spraying up your counters! And the only way to stop this is to either close all your doors and windows and board-up the cat flap - or get a magnetic cat flap.

Which means your cat needs to wear a collar to put the magnet on.

Therefore, if you have got your kitten used to wearing a collar when it is younger, it won’t mind wearing one when it is older - saving you the effort of training your grumpy older cat to stop pulling his off with the expensive magnet on it!!!

Some people also like their cat to wear a bell on it’s collar to prevent them catching birds and bringing frogs home (which they will)! You’ll find them in your house!

Cat Carrier - You can make do with a large cardboard box when you first collect your kittens, but it is in no way suitable for continued use. For a start you can’t wash it!

Ideally, once you have found your kittens for sale and have agreed a collection date, you should head out to a pet store and buy a plastic cat carrier.

Ideally avoid the wire-cage style as if can be very worrying for your kitten to be so exposed - particularly at the vets where they are on the floor surrounded by legs, people, telephones and (worst of all) loads of dogs!

The more suitable plastic ones have closed in but vented sides and just the one open end for entry. The whole top unclips so they are ideal for storage as well, and with the door detached, they can be used for a cosy kitten bed allowing your felines to get used to using it rather than having an almighty struggle when you need to go to the vets!

Kitten Food - Although this is essential for your kitten - and it will be discussed in detail in a later article - you should really continue to feed you lovely kittens on the food that they are already eating. For at least 4-6 weeks really.

That way they won’t get an upset tummy when they move to your house. They will already be a bit nervous of leaving their mom and starting out in a new home - so the last thing they need is to be fed a totally different food as well.

You should decide what premium kitten food you want to move your kittens over to and have that already in stock after collecting your kittens. Make sure that you have read up all about weaning them over onto it so it all goes smoothly.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Using the list from the introduction, here is a summary of what you need and why you need it. They are covered in 2 groups: Absolute Essentials and Useful Additions.

Absolute Essentials: Your kittens cannot do without the following items (even if they are second-hand). And there are a few tips for each to make sure everything runs smoothly for your new addition!

Water Bowls - It is essential that your kittens have at least one water bowl with clean fresh water in it at all times. Many felines prefer bathroom water or rain water to kitchen tap water as it contains less chemicals - so maybe try different options to see what the cuties prefer.

Also a combined food and water dish is not the best option as the food can fall into the water while eating and then the kittens won’t drink it. And all the while you are washing the food dish - which with wet food can be several times a day - there is no water bowl anyway!

Food Bowls - Each kitten should have their own food bowl - and it only needs to be a small one. Avoid buying dual feeding dishes as many felines prefer not to eat face to face with another feline - it’s like us eating off the same plate as our sisters!

Dishes that are too deep are no god either as they can affect the amount and frequency your kitten eats - imagine having to scoop your dinner out the bottom of a big barrel at meal times! And kittens need to eat a lot of food spread over the day, so it is essential to get the bowls right otherwise they won’t gain weight at the correct rate.

Bed or Blanket - Many kittens won’t always sleep in a bed just because you brought it for them. They like to sleep in a high location out of the way - and preferably somewhere warm and cosy.

So if you decide that you want the cat to sleep in the hallway on the floor and stick a bed there - if it’s too busy, too cold, too low or too near the dog (!) - the cat probably won’t use it. It will just sleep wherever it wants to. And this is where the blankets come in.

You can lay a blanket over the back of the couch, on a window ledge, book shelf, airing cupboard or your bed and it keeps off the hairs!

Litter Tray - As the little kittens will be too tiny to go outside for the first few weeks (and it isn’t advised until after their vaccinations anyway) - they will need a place to go to the toilet in your house somewhere.

It needs to be in a quiet location ideally and away from their normal eating place.

Depending on your needs there are many different shapes and sizes of litter tray available, some are small trays, others and protected tray and others are fully hooded contraptions (which might frighten smaller kittens). It all depends on how clean and scent-free you need the tray to be.

There are different types of cat litter available as well, but your kittens will soon tell you whether they like it or not! It’s best to start with a wood-based or paper-based litter for ease and for absorption, but some older cats prefer the heavier clay variety - so it depends if they have to share!

Even if they intend to be an outdoor cat it’s always good to have trained them to use a litter tray when they are young incase they are ever house-bound due to illness or house-moving and need to stay indoors. Some older cats just won’t be trained!

Other additional accessories for litter trays can include filters, odor eaters, fresheners and litter bags as well as scoops and exit mats! All designed for human comfort. They mean that not only do the owners not have to smell a fresh stool - but they can put the litter tray in places where it otherwise wouldn’t be suitable.

For example, the hooded litter tray with odor eaters and litter bags could be left in the kitchen as an alternative to an open shallow tray with a fresh doodle sitting in it! And when ready to change, just lift the bag out and throw away - no spillage anywhere.

Also, the exit mats and high sided litter tray would mean that litter wasn’t tracked or kicked all over the carpet after each visit!

See you next week to complete your Perfect Kitten Essential Kitten Kit!

posted by admin on Sep 4

So, you have decided to get yourself one or two cute kittens at last!

Great choice - so now you need to start getting everything ready for the big day when you collect your little kittens and bring them home.

Whether it’s a flame point Himalayan kitten you want or just a ginger tabby, they all need the same basic care when they are young - and their first 12 months could influence the rest of their lives - and yours!!

Planning:
There is nothing worse than getting the kittens first and then having to rush around buying whatever you think you need there and then.

Not only will the kittens become stressed at your rushing around with them, or at being left at home alone while you drive around the stores - but you may end up buying the wrong things simply because they are the only things you can find in time!

Not a very good start to your lives together.

So it makes sense to plan ahead and get the essentials ready in advance. And here’s the basic list for starters:

Water Bowls
Food Bowls
Bed or Blanket
Litter Tray & Cat Litter
Scratching Post
Selection of Toys
Safe Cat Carrier
Collar & Tag
Kitten Food

Obviously there are many things to consider with all of these items depending on your requirements, the number of other pets and children in the house and the requirements and choices of your kitten over the first few months.

And this series in the Perfect Kitten Guide starts with Part 1 of your Essential Starter Kitten Kit starting next week.

posted by admin on Jun 29

So, what is the best Flea Product to use?

As with any flea control products or flea treatments, it depends on how you use them as to whether they appear to work, so comparing individual products is very hard. Don’t forget that fleas do not live on the pet itself, so the following product in the example below could have 2 very different results in the eyes of the untrained ‘flea’ owner:

House 1: You can use flea spray A on a pet in a house with no infestation or flea eggs present, and that will be it - no more fleas on that pet.

House 2: You can use the same flea spray A on a pet in a house with an infestation and/or flea eggs present, and soon enough that pet will ‘have’ fleas again.

But aren’t some products stronger than others?
There are flea treatments for pets that are ’stronger’ than others in terms of the chemicals present, and those from your vets normally contain stronger insecticides than those you might find in a pet store and even stronger than those in a supermarket.

However the reason the ones from the vets normally ‘work better’ is due to the information that the vet gives you.

A good vet, when confronted by a flea problem in a client, will not only recommend a treatment for the pet, but will usually not let you leave there without a product for the house too, therefore killing the flea cycle completely - clearing out your house and clearing your pet at the same time - they may well even sell you a wormer that you think is more money but it will actually benefit your pet long term.

Compare this to when you go into a supermarket for your pet supplies. There is no one trained there to help you choose the best flea control program, so you will usually pick up the one your friend recommended - even though they may have just been House 1 in the example above (and you may be house 2).

Or if not, you may select the cheapest one thinking they are all the same, just different brands (like bread or washing powders) and get home with just one step of the recommended flea control program - to just kill the fleas on your pet - the ones you can see!

Either way, it’s probably not going to work.

Why Won’t It Work?? 
I’d like to go back to friends recommendations above, as they are often based on no real evidence either, just what that friend saw. For example, what if that friend from House 1 found several fleas in their house the following month, they could take one of the 2 paths here:

Path A: Buy the same product they brought last time, but as the fleas are in the house now not just on the pet, this will appear not work. The friend will be confused and probably think that they didn’t use enough, so may respray the pet.

Path B: Buy a different product, as their usual one wasn’t available, but this will also not appear to work - as the owner hasn’t realised the fleas are in the home not just on the pet. They will therefore assume that this product doesn’t work but the last one did.

There are no actual facts involved in either of these recommendations, just a lack of knowledge about the flea cycle, and sadly it will not only be them who is wasting money experimenting in this way, they will be helping you to make the same mistakes.

So, the best products are…….
In conclusion, I can only say that the only products you should use for your pet to rid your home of fleas - and which should be all be applied at the same time - are the following:

• Any brand of insecticide household flea spraythat kills all flea eggs, flea larvae, flea pupae and adult fleas and lasts for at least a year.
• Any brand of insecticide cat or dog products, including flea shampoo, tablets, powder, drops or spray (only use the dog products on dogs NEVER CATS).
• Any brand of tapeworm and roundworm killers that contains enough to treat every pet you own - check the weights and 2 in 1’s are easier to administer.

If you can find a product brand that does all 3 stages above, it would be best to use all their products for the 3 stages above. You can rest assured then, that they are professionals and dedicate a lot of their funds to researching flea treatments, and that their products have been tested together, and so should give the best flea control.

Don’t cut corners here, as you may well waste all the money you spend if one stage is not used properly - see ‘How to get rid of fleas in your home’ for more details.

.